Wednesday, November 22, 2017

Prepare your body for winter: Baobab & babassu body butter with Simulgreen 18-2 (part one)

Yeah, as a former English major, I love a good alliteration, but these are some of my favourite ingredients with one of my favourite new emulsifiers, Simulgreen 18-2. I made a huge batch last year for our itchy winter skin, and I've made so many versions of it since then as I love it so much.

My favourite thing about it is the way the babassu oil melts on contact with your skin, so it pumps out of the bottle quite thick, but turns to liquid quite quickly.

One note - don't put this in a cute treatment pump or airless pump type bottle as it simply won't pump out. You need this to be in a tottle bottle or jar as it gets quite thick. I wanted a few cute bottles for pictures, and I eventually had to cut the darned thing in half to get it out to put into another container.

For the water phase, I definitely want some aloe vera in here to act as a film former and hydrator. I'm also adding chamomile hydrosol as I like its ability to soothe and reduce transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours. (I know, right???)

As a note about aloe vera, you don't want the gel as if you look at the INCI name on your gel, you'll see it's gelled with a carbomer like Ultrez 20. It's not a bad thing, but not something we need in a lotion. And if you're using 100x or 200x powdered extract, you need to reconstitute it with water, then add it to the product. Do not just add 0.25% as that is far too much and will likely create product failures as that's far too much salt to be added to one product. Please read more about using those powders here

I love love love humectants to draw water from the atmosphere to our skin to hydrate, so I'm including a few in this one intended for dry winter skin in the form of glycerin, propylene glycol, and sodium lactate. I'm also adding some panthenol - liquid in the cool down phase or powder in the heated water phase - as I need all the wound healing I can get for my dry, cracked skin.

I love using allantoin in everything - seriously, visit this post to learn more if you aren't sold on this comfrey, aloe, or urine derivative - to help keep out winter winds and cold and soothe skin chapping. This very inexpensive powder with a super long shelf life should always go into the heated phase as it can create little crystals that feel like shards on your skin if it isn't dissolved properly.

And finally, I have to have some kind of hydrolyzed protein in the mix to help hydrate and film form on my skin. Keeping with the theme of this body butter, I'm using hydrolyzed baobab protein, but you could use silk amino acids, hydrolyzed oat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, or any other one you might like.

I love babassu oil. I love it so much, some of you joke that I'm working for the Babassu Advisory Council. (There isn't one, but if there me. Let's talk.) It's a great substitute for coconut oil as it melts at 24˚C or 76˚F, which is much lower than body temperature, so the body butter glides nicely over your skin. Unlike coconut oil, though, it is considered lighter, much less greasy, and silky feeling.

And I love baobab oil. Thanks to all that thick palmitic acid that we'd normally find in much smaller quantities in liquid oils, I find it feels like a medium weight oil without the greasiness I associate with something like olive oil. I think this is an important ingredient in this product, and don't suggest altering it if you want that less greasy skin feel. As well, baobab contains a lot of phystosterols, which act as anti-inflammatory ingredients, something awesome and necessary for winter months.

Whoa, huge slam on olive oil out of nowhere, eh? I generally like greasy products, but I wanted something a little less greasy for this product. If you wanted to use olive oil here, it'd be a good choice with all those lovely phytosterols. 

I'm adding very liquidy dimethicone in the cool down phase to act as a barrier protectant ingredient and silk-i-fier, which is a word I just made up, but I'll use it from now to describe something that makes something feel more silky. Feel free to use 350 cs or 1000 cs, much heavier dimethicones, in its place. At 2%, the weight won't make a huge difference.

For the emulsifier, I'm using Simulgreen 18-2, a green, ECOcert and Natrue approved ingredient that offers a lighter, much less greasy skin feel when compared with something like Polawax. You have to stabilize it with a fatty alcohol, so I'm using cetyl alcohol here, or xanthan gum, which I'm using at 0.5% as well.

Why am I putting the xanthan gum into the heated oil phase when it's a water soluble ingredient? Because it's less likely to get clumpy in something like oil, in which it can't dissolve. When we add the heated water phase and heated oil phase together, the xanthan gum will stay unclumped, making it far more awesome than a clumpy lotion.

Wow, I do go on, eh?

In light of my recent post about wanting your feedback in the comments before I post part two, please share your thoughts in the comments below!


La Prairie Lady said...

Hello Susan

Continue your good job. About Patreon, I can pay with Paypal ??


devo said...

Always an informative (and entertaining!) read from you Susan, and I’m looking forward to part 2!

I’m a soaper/mad scientist at heart and although I understand that olive oil brings a lot to the party, I’m glad to see other wonderful oils used in it’s place. I’ve always wanted to try Baobab oil, so I’m thinking that this is my excuse to get some!

Thanks again for loads of information (I seriously can’t get enough, in fact I get asked once a day if I’ve “read everything about soap yet”), and although you’ve had to deal with a number of unfortunate happenings in the past year, I can’t help but feel like a little child who finally has his mum all to himself - giddy (and perhaps a bit selfish)! We’re here to offer you support, just like you’ve done for us in all of our crafty endeavours!


PamBirtolo said...

OK, Susan,
As you know, I'm an ardent fan and will try to become visible for you. Of course, I want you to go on! I love babassu oil so please finish the post.
Take care,

Camirra Williamson said...

I'm considering blending boabab oil with cupcuacu butter and babassu oil to make a whipped face butter night cream! I make one with cucuacu butter, babassu oil, and a touch of apricot oil and love it. but I think the baobab would really be a good compliment.

martacat said...

Alright,bring it on! Have babassu oil, baobab oil, hydrolyzed baobab protein, Simulgreen 18-2, dimethicone, and too many other ingredients (thanks to a prolific enabler). I'm ready to go.

Carol Ann Elisen said...

Looking forward to your formulation as we struggle with winter skin. Do you have any suggestions for eczema or for protection from itchy skin reactions?

Éva C said...

Dear Susan!
I'm delighted with this entry since I'm one of my favorite emulsifiers for Simulgreen 18-2. I've been using it for a long time, but face creams have always been something I've always wanted to make. I use 2% of creams with 1% Phospholipon 80H co-emulsifier.
Thank you for your shared knowledge and experience.
With love of Hungary Ceva

Eija said...

I do have some babassu oil laying around so getting something done from it would be great. =)

I'm thinking my sister would love some babassu oil body butter as it was originally bought for her. I just made a batch for myself with one of your old recipes for body butter so I don't need more but sister is always a good candidate for body products.

SoapsbySly said...

Thank you for the interesting article... I've always loved babassu oil...haven't tried Simulgreen (usually use BTMS-50...don't know if it can be substituted?)
I look forward to more of your posts, as I always do!

Doris Bitler said...

I'm excited to try this one! I love babassu oil and I've become a fan of baobab hydrolyzed protein, so this sounds perfect for me. This will be my first winter making my own products for my family's dry, itchy winter skin and I'm really looking forward to customizing lotions that will work for us. I can't remember the exact name, but I made the heavy duty hand cream from the winter products e-zine and it's been getting rave reviews in my house!

Frit said...

Thank you for this, Susan!

Always lovely to read your posts; not only do I get excellent information on formulae, but also a chance to see your thought processes as you design each one. This gives me insight on what to look for when I start making my own.


Jennifer Hiatt said...

Ooh! Never formulated with baobab or simulgreen before! I have babassu so, I'm thinking I might need to be ordering more supplies soon:-) my skin gets so dry this time of year and my youngest has eczema.

Carolyn Openshaw said...

I also love boabab oil. I have been playing with it in hair conditioner because if its "silicone like" properties.
Thank you for all that you do.

Kim said...

Both babassu and baobab oils sound like things I need to try! I have been experimenting with other emulsifiers lately, like Montanov 68, and I recently tried Lotionpro for the first time in a body butter and it was very nice. It's amazing how just a change in which emulsifier one uses, how different the product can be. Looking forward to the next installment!

Kathleen Butterworth said...

I believe I might have all the ingredients! Although I have some babassu oil - I don't think I have used it in anything yet and I'm looking forward to part II...My skin is so dry that I think I have scared my shins from scratching!

Catherine Bennett said...

I love babassu too. I use it in many of my formulas in place of the other butters because it is less greasy. I believe I have you to thank for it's discovery! And thanks for the tip on the xanthum gum. I have tried everything to make it not clump. Now I know the magic trick! Thanks, Susan, for another great post.

Rebekah Osorio said...

I love this combo of ingredients. Yes, I'm with you all on babassu. It is one of my favorite butters! And I can't wait to try the xanthum gum tip. Is this tip something I can use with other clump-tending thickeners?

Kelli Spears said...

Oh I love this post Susan! I read another post you wrote about Simulgreen and I ordered a small amount from Lotioncrafters to try. I loved it so much I immediately ordered a larger amount. I also ordered the Baobab Protein and used it in my new lotion formula along with the Simulgreen and Babassu Oil. I really like Babassu Oil in lotion and I've used it in my conditioner. Simulgreen as a really nice skin feel and I will keep using it in lotion and would like to experiment with it in other products. I did want to ask you if it's compatible with Cationic ingredients? Didn't see anything about that in the description on Lotioncrafters and haven't had a chance to ask Jen.

Shabnam Askari Ashtiani said...

Thank you for the awesome post. I usually add Xanthan gum in my water phase but disperse it in Glycerin first then add water and allow it to sit for 20 minutes; I will add it to the oil phase next time 😊

Tendo said...

Hi Susan,

Love the work you do, you are my #diy-goals! Unfortunately living on the other side of the world, I do not have easy access to stuff like Simulgreen and Babassu oil. So I am thinking of substituting it with Xyliance or Plantasens H20 and see how it goes.

Kate said...

Thank you for your wonderful blog. I am gaining so much insight, for me there is nothing more interesting then expanding my knowledge base. I recently purchased baobab oil so I am looking forward to making this lotion. I don’t have the Simulgreen but I do have the Simusol 165, I am looking forward to that formulation.

Cecile said...

I used to work in Senegal, where baobab trees flourish. I may need to track down some of this oil!

SweetHeartSearching said...

I love love the ingredients in this. Thank you for the info on being able to use either dimethicone due to the low percentage as that makes it one less item I'd have to buy if I made this really great formula. I think you have trained me to have the same taste in ingredients in part. Except I have pretty dry sensitive skin and stair towards things that absorb quickly except on the lips. I am so picky when i buy stuff in the store now too! My poor bf! He hates it when i buy shampoo as im not their yet even tho i have your book. Ps I'm determined to come up with my own version of theraderm anti-aging lip complex since it is really awesome with some modification. I learned from your books about transdermal ....water loss(fibromyalgia brain fog). I love the lip complex so much and it works really nicely on my scared lips, and hydrates then well while it's on and lasts a good long time, yet after the product wears off I find my lips start to dry out. It made me smile when it first happen and I realized it. I still use it all the time and balance it with a Shea butter Chapstick for now.