Wednesday, August 16, 2017

It's too hot to craft: Cold process hair conditioners - part four with ICE Hair Restore

Last Monday, we met a new, cold process conditioner I bought from Making Cosmetics called Ice Hair Restore (aka Gracefruit's EasyMix Smooth or Jeesperse CPCS). Last Tuesday, we made a hair conditioner with it, then modified that on Wednesday into a more intense conditioner my best friend coined the Pineapple Express Intense Conditioner.

Let's modify this formula to include some oils as ICE Hair Restore can emulsify up to 10%. (Click there to see why I'm using the ingredients I'm using...)

83% distilled or purified water
5% ICE Hair Restore
3% Volumizing complex
2% Hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% panthenol (liquid)
2% dimethicone 350 cs
2% cyclomethicone
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% Pineapple cilantro fragrance oil (from Windy Point Soap)

All our formulas should total 100% so we can quickly see whether we're using our ingredients in proper amounts as per the suggested usage rates. So when we add something to the mix, we have to remove something to keep that total at 100%. In this case, it's easiest to add our oil at 5% and remove 5% distilled water.

In this case, I'm adding some monoi de Tahiti, coconut oil infused with gardenia flowers that smells amazing! This is an awesome inclusion in a hair conditioner as coconut oil has a high affinity for the proteins in our hair, plus the fatty acids are actually small enough to penetrate the strand. (Click for more information...)

If you don't have monoi de Tahiti, you can use normal coconut oil or any other oil. I really really love this smell, which is weird because I didn't think of myself as a flower kind of girl, but it turns out I love all kinds of flower fragrances!

If we add 5% coconut oil to this formula, we have to take 5% out of the water phase, so our distilled water amount will be 78%. You'll notice everything else is the same.

5% ICE Hair Restore

5% monoi de Tahiti

78% distilled or purified water
3% Volumizing complex
2% hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% panthenol (liquid)
2% dimethicone 350 cs
2% cyclomethicone
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% lemongrass verbena fragrance oil (Voyageur Soap & Candle)

Weigh the ICE Hair Restore out separately into a tiny container, then mix with my tiny stick blender until it's more of a paste.

Melt the monoi de Tahiti oil until melted or liquid. (As a note, it's super hot in my workshop, so I didn't need to melt the monoi de Tahiti as it has a melting point of 24˚C or 76˚F, and we exceeded that yesterday.)

Into a container, weigh the water phase, then add the ICE Hair Restore, and mix for around 30 seconds. Add the oil, and mix for 15 or so seconds. Add the rest of the ingredients into the container, mixing after every addition.

You're done! Rejoice!

You might notice I have a fragrance oil in that formula. I added that as I couldn't smell the monoi in the finished product, and I really like to have a light fragrance in my hair conditioners. If you want the monoi fragrance, up the amount to 10% and remove the cyclomethicone and dimethicone. (They're part of the total 10% oils this ingredient can emulsify. Keeping them in will result in failure. I know this, sadly, by experience.) I started at 0.5% fragrance oil, then upped it to a total of 0.75%, which I think is a bit much. That's what I get for trusting my nose instead of my scale!

I can't stress enough how much you want to mix the ICE Hair Restore powder before adding it. You can see the giant lump in this picture, which I've had trouble breaking down once combined, so definitely give it a whirl with a small stick blender or even your gloved hands!

Don't you love these tiny mixers? I've been using Lotioncrafter's Minipro Mixer for ages, but they've come out with the MICROMini™ Mixer that's even smaller. (I'll show you how to use that shortly. You can put it right into a bottle, which is awesome!) I also purchased this Mini Mixer from Candora Soap, which I'm loving! 

How to mix this? You can use a stick blender, a mini blender, or a hand mixer. If I have to use a larger device to mix, I prefer to use a hand mixer. You don't really have to worry about using a high shear or immersion or stick blender type appliance for this product. You don't want to mix it by hand. It's very rare that we want to mix by hand.

Related post: Can how and when we mix have an impact on an emulsion?

What do I think of this formula? I really like it and I have really oily hair. (I don't recommend using it on your scalp if you're an oily person like me...) My hair felt light and moisturized without being heavy and weighed down. I had lovely waves and ringlets in my hair for the first two days, which made me very happy, and my hair felt very soft. It was shiny, which is something that I don't generally see as I have coarse, wavy hair strands, which was a really pleasant surprise.

I mentioned in this post that I think I need a humectant in the mix as my hair feels a bit dry on the ends on the morning of day three, and I feel this way about this version as well. I'll share that formula with you early next week.

If you have dry hair, you'll definitely want to add a humectant to the mix - say 3% glycerin to start - as you'll want more hydration than this formula offers. (I will be sharing that formula with you early next week.)

If you have oily hair, you might not want to use the oil at all, so try last week's formula without it if you're worried about that.

I wish this was a little less grainy than it is. I think I could fix that by heating it up, but that defeats the purpose of using this product, so I'll live with it!

What do you think? Have you tried this ingredient? What did you make? What would you suggest for other variations? Share your thoughts!


herezy said...

Slightly off-topic, but I'm curious and I don't think you ever made a post on this.

What are your favorite fragrance oils?

Kirsten Thomas. said...

I'm sorry to hear it was a little grainy...I got super excited when I saw it was a quick cold recipe! I might buy some and try it anyway...I am too lazy and busy to do a proper heat and hold shampoo and conditioner right now. BTW, I have Monoi Tahiti too, fell in love with the scent of tiari when we were in Tahiti for our anniversary a few years ago. You are right, it doesn't have much of a smell, but I really like to include it in m conditioner anyway. I have been adding keratin too, which I also love.

Michelle Kot said...

Hi Susan, solid conditioners adict here :),.
Do you think wwe can make solid one with ICE Hair Restore?
Thank you.

Michelle Kot said...

oh god! ))) "addict" and "we"

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Good thought, herezy! I should post something on that as I have a bunch of new ones I love!

It's worth making! I really really like this conditioner!

Hi Michelle! I love solid ones, too. I don't think this is the best ingredient to use, but I have behentrimonium chloride on its own and a formula I'm dying to try when the weather cools down later this weekend.

Kim said...

For those who like to duplicate products, you might like to know that ICE Hair Restore is what is being used in "It's a 10". The quat 37 is different - it's quat 80 in their product, but close enough. "It's a 10" works great as a detangler for me on my thickish, fine, highlighted hair, and I decided to figure out how to make it since it's ridiculously expensive and looks simple enough. I used ICE at 3.5%, same as the sample formula at Making Cosmetics; and included bamboo extract, hydrolyzed rice protein, panthenol, and VegeKeratin. Super simple to make, looks and sprays on just like the original! I think 3.5% ICE might be a bit too much in a leave-in as I don't want it to weight down my hair at all. I too found ICE to be clumpy, and I ran mine through a sifter first to break up the clumps - worked great. Thanks for giving this product a thorough review!

Ally H. said...

Heating the water a bit first does help with graininess--I heated it to 60 degrees (celsius), then added the ICE--it mixed smoothly and wonderfully! I realize heating the water somewhat negates the whole "cold" processing part, but it's less time consuming than heating and holding for 20 minutes so I still save time. :-) I love this recipe! The only thing different I did was to add 2% more Monoi, and I reduced the cyclomethicone and dimethicone to 1% each to account for this increase. My fine hair does not feel weighed down by this at all, and it seems to be softer and smoother as well. I will definitely be making this again. Thank you Susan!