Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Rosehip & calendula moisturizer (part one)

Yesterday, we met a neat new emulsifier, Simulgreen 18-2. Let's take a look at the facial moisturizer I created for my demonstration at the 2017 Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetics Guild conference, which was very kindly sponsored by Lotioncrafter. There are so many cool things about this formula, but the best might be that all the ingredients are green or ECOcert, except one - liquid Germall Plus - so you could call this 99.5% natural! (I bet you didn't expect that from me, eh?)

I want this facial moisturizer to feel light and less greasy on my skin, 'cause the last thing I want is a really shiny, oily face! I'll choose my ingredients with that goal in mind. I want to include lovely humectants to hydrate my skin and lovely oils to moisturize. I'll include some extracts and cosmeceuticals to offer other benefits to my skin.

NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL MOISTURIZER
HEATED WATER PHASE
46% distilled water
10% hyaluronic acid gel (0.1% HA LMW)
3% propanediol 1,3
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
1% sodium lactate (powder)
2% hydrolyzed quinoa protein
2% panthenol (powder)
0.5% allantoin

HEATED OIL PHASE
10% squalane
5% rosehip seed oil
4% Simulgreen 18-2
2% behenyl alcohol
1% Sepilift DPHP

COOL DOWN PHASE
5% Antarcticine
2% Regu-scence
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Weigh the heated water phase into a heatproof container. Measure the weight of the water phase and the container before putting it into your double boiler. (This is so we can compensate for evaporation after the heating and holding phase.) Place the container into a double boiler.

2. Weigh the heated oil phase into a heatproof container, then place into the double boiler.

3. When both phases have reached 70˚C, remove from the heat. Pour the water into the oil phase, then mix with a stick blender for about 3 minutes. Then switch to a hand mixer with beaters.

4. When the lotion reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase and mix well.

As I mentioned yesterday, this lotion can be a bit picky about how you work with it, so please follow this process exactly as written.

So what's it like? It's a light lotion that feels like it sinks in quickly into the skin. It's non-greasy, but spreads well. I've been using it as a light, all over moisturizer during these warmer months, and I love that I can apply it, then play on my iPad shortly thereafter without covering it in grease.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at why I used each of these ingredients! (And isn't this cupcake napkin cute as heck?)

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