Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Recipes from the HSCG 2017 conference: Niacinamide & willow bark hydro-gel - part three, the recipe and modifications

Yesterday, we met a new gelling agent in the form of Sepinov EMT 10, and Monday we took a look at the ingredients we're using in this recipe. Today, let's look at the recipe and some modifications we can make to it!

74.5% distilled water
5% willow bark extract (liquid)
4% niacinamide (powder)
3% propanediol 1,3
3% sea kelp bioferment
2% n-acetyl glucosamine
2% panthenol (powder)
2% chamomile extract (liquid)
0.5% sodium lactate (powder)
0.5% allantoin
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

3.0 % Sepinov EMT 10

In a container that’s big enough to use the stick blender or hand mixer in, combine all the water phase ingredients. Sprinkle the powder over the water, then mix well with a stick blender or hand mixer until it gels. You’re done! Rejoice!

Wow, that was super easy, right? 

If you want to alter this recipe, please note that niacinamide needs to have a pH around 6, so we can’t add any acids, like salicylic acid or AHAs, or ingredients that might need to have a lower pH. 

A few combinations that might be nice…
Use this as a targeted treatment by adding 3% to 10% argireline into the water phase. 
Try using this as a targeted or all over treatment by dissolving 1% genistein into 3% glycerin (use in place of the propanediol 1,3). 
5% Fision Active White for a little of everything to help with skin brightening. 
Add 10% any oil or oil soluble ingredient to this recipe to make a cream gel. I really like squalane in this recipe. (I'll be posting that version shortly...) 
Add a fruit acid complex at up to 10% to add some AHA ingredients. If you do this, please remove the niacinamide at 4% from the recipe as per my note above. 

If you have Sepimax ZEN, you can use it in place of Sepinov EMT 10 in this recipe. It may be quite thick at 3%, but give it a try. 

Or join me tomorrow and the next day as we look at some awesome modifications of this recipe! 

Links to buy these ingredients at Lotioncrafter:
Willow bark extract
Chamomile extract
Sodium lactate
n-acetyl glucosamine
Propanediol 1,3
Sea kelp bioferment
Sepinov EMT 10
Liquid Germall Plus

Please note, I supply these links to Lotioncrafter as my thanks for sponsoring my demonstration at the HSCG conference. These are not affiliate links and I receive nothing if you click through or if you buy ingredients from that shop. I have them here to make it easier for you to find things as well as showing my gratitude for Jen's generosity! 

If you're interested in learning more about gels using Sepinov EMT 10 and simply can't wait for me to post things on this blog, please check out the e-zine I wrote on the topic, entitled Gels! Ooey, gooey fun! which includes recipes for Ultrez 20 and Sepimax ZEN. 

Oh, as a note, if you're a $10 subscriber to my Patreon page, Lotioncrafter is offering you a 7% discount on ingredients until Saturday, June 10th! Pretty awesome, eh?

Join me tomorrow for more fun modifying this recipe! 


Mamacitas Taqueria said...

Hi Susan!
Thank you so much for your recipes and knowledge. I wanted to ask about adding squaline to this recipe. I know that you said you would post a version that included this ingredient, have I missed it? Also, I'm wondering about adding the hyluronic acid and panthenol gel that I made from Lotioncrafter's formulary. Would that work in this recipe at 10%?

Kelly Stevens said...

Hi Susan, I just ordered everything I needed for this (I thought) but I didn't notice it called for sodium lactate powder. I have liquid - can I use that instead? If so at what amount?


Kelly Stevens said...

Sorry, please disregard my question - I re-read Part One and found my answer.


Pooky said...

Hi Susan,

I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and for opening my eyes; I used to be a "Preservatives are bad" type of person (thank God that was before I started making my own cosmetics) and now I am a converted!

I would like to ask you is part of the water in this recipe can be substituted by aloe vera.

Thank you!

BrNy said...

Hi Susan, I made this today and it's lovely... but sticky (which doesn't bother me horribly) so I was wondering if that's how it's meant to feel. I followed the recipe to a T and used the mini pro-mixer to incorporate the ingredients together (I mixed it for a good minute until I felt it was well mixed enough.) It became nice and thick but sticky - I put the lotion on my face and 30 minutes later the stickiness was finally going away. Like I said, this doesn't bother me much but just wanna make sure it's ok to use the product this way. I wonder if the sea kelp or propanediol made it this sticky or this is how products made with Sepinov feel like. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

PS: I bought your Gels! e-zine and I'm so excited to learn to make more stuff.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi BrNy! No, it's not supposed to be sticky. You can use the product if it's sticky, but that isn't the intended skin feel. The propanediol 1,3 isn't a sticky feeling ingredient: If you try it neat, you'll notice it's weirdly dry feeling for a liquid. Gels aren't inherently sticky, and that skin feel comes from what we add to them. Sepinov is quite creamy to the touch, I find. If you followed the formula exactly as written and used all the same ingredients I did from Lotioncrafter, then I'm stumped. It might just come down to a difference of opinion of what "sticky" means. Or it could be it's quite humid where you are or less humid than where I live or other factors.