Monday, May 8, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Gigawhite & Vitamin C moisturizer with Aristoflex AVC - the oil phase and emulsifier

I was fortunate to be asked to present at this year's Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetics Guild conference in Las Vegas, and thought I'd share some of those recipes with you. Lotioncrafter very kindly sponsored my presentation, providing me with all the ingredients I needed as well as all the supplies from beakers to spatulae and the equipment, like a hand mixer and kettle. You can get all the ingredients I mention in this recipe at that lovely on-line store, as you'll see in the links below.

The goal of this moisturizer is to create something that all kinds of ingredients to moisturize and hydrate our skin with some lovely active ingredients to help with the appearance of uneven skin tone and fine lines and wrinkles. We’re using Aristoflex AVC as a cold emulsifier so we can make something quickly rather than heating and holding.

Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) is a cold process emulsifier, a polymer that can create gels as well as emulsify up to 5% oils or silicones. We can’t include ingredients with high levels of electrolytes, like aloe vera, sodium PCA, sodium lactate, some extracts, or some proteins, or hyaluronic acid at 0.1% or higher. It doesn’t work well with surfactant based products, like shampoo, body wash, or facial cleansers. It can potentially make clear gels, and it’s suggested you use up to 5% glycerin to make the gels clearer.

In this recipe, I'm using it at 1% to emulsify my two oil soluble ingredients - tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and squalane.

Squalane is a fantastic oil! It makes up about 12% of our skin's sebum, so our skin identifies it as "ours" and soaks it up quickly. Squalene is a vital part of cholesterol, steroid, and Vitamin D synthesis in our bodies. It penetrates the skin quickly offering softening and moisturizing to even really chapped or cracked skin. You can use it neat or in a lotion. But it's highly unstable with all those double bonds. So instead we use squalane, a hydrogenated version with no double bonds that offers us a lot of stability, such as a shelf life of over 2 years!

I'm using it at 3% to offer some light moisturizing along with the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. You could choose another oil, but if you're making facial products, really consider investing in some squalane. It feels amazing and makes such a difference in the skin feel of any product, even at a lower usage level. I'm not kidding about this. We made a serum at the conference - you'll see it next week - with squalane as the base, and people really loved it. It is an amazing oil!

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil soluble Vitamin C used to promote a more even skin tone. I'm using it at 2% in this recipe to see how my skin handles it, but you could use this ingredient as high as 10%. Having said that, you can't go over 5% oils with Aristoflex AVC, so if you're considering higher levels, you might want to choose another recipe.

Related posts:
Vitamin C
Adding Vitamin C to a product
Aristoflex AVC: A facial moisturizer with Vitamin C and ferulic acid
If Vitamin C doesn't penetrate the skin, what is the benefit of it?

Links to buy these ingredients at Lotioncrafter:
Aristoflex AVC
Neoessence squalane
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

As a note, none of these links are affiliate links and I do not receive any sort of compensation if you buy something from Lotioncrafter. I provide them as Jen was so kind to supply all the ingredients for the conference at great expense to her company, and this is my way of saying thanks for spending so much time to make sure my presentation was the best it could be! 

As this post is getting far too long, please join me tomorrow as we look at the water phase!


Maggie Mahboubian said...

Is Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate encapsulated so that the vitamin C does not oxidize in the water phase of your emulsion?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Maggie! I've included links for each ingredient in the post. Does the linked material answer your question? .

Michelle Kot said...

Susan, where is the recipe itself, i don't see it...sorry

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michelle! Click on "newer post" to see the next instalment of this recipe!