Thursday, April 13, 2017

Newbie Tuesday on Thursday: Making a gelled facial serum with AHAs

Last week we took a look at AHAs. Today, let's add some of these to our gelled serum with or without oils using Sepimax ZEN.

We're using a combination of fruit acids you can find as Multifruit BSC, fruit acid complex, and other names because we can add quite a bit of it without having to stress about testing the products with a pH meter. If you have a meter, check out how the pH changes before and after you add it.

68% distilled water
10% oils of choice
10% aloe vera
3% Multifruit BSC
2% glycerin
2% sodium lactate
2% panthenol
0.5% allantoin
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

2% Sepimax ZEN

Weigh out all the water phase ingredients. Use warm water to dissolve the allantoin. Mix well. 

Sprinkle the Sepimax ZEN into the container, then let it sit for up to eight hours. Resist the urge to mix or stir for that eight hours! Then mix with a beater attachment on your mixer or a milk frother. Please don’t use a stick blender as that’s can ruin the gel. And you’re done! 

There is another option if you don’t want to wait eight hours. You can sprinkle the Sepimax ZEN into the container, then mix for 10 minutes with a mixer with beaters or a propeller mixer. It will be slightly thicker than the one made by waiting eight hours. 

If you want to add more Multifruit BSC, try it at 5% next time up to a maximum of 8%. 

If you'd like to make a version that doesn't contain oils, remove the 10% and just add more water or another water soluble ingredient. Take a look at the posts on gelled toners to see how that might look. 

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants
Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe
Creating a facial toner (part one)
Creating a facial toner (part two)
Creating a facial toner (part three) - cosmeceuticals
Creating a facial toner (part four) - adding cosmeceuticals
Gels, gels, gels! Ultrez 20
Gels, gels, gels! Sepimax ZEN
Making a gelled toner with Ultrez 20
Making a lavender & chamomile gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20
Making a chamomile & cucumber gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20
Using Sepimax ZEN to make an oil free gel moisturizer
Using Sepimax ZEN to make an oil containing gelled facial serum
Using Sepimax ZEN to make a gelled facial serum with AHAs (part one)

As a quick note, as I'm getting ready to present at the American Soapmakers Guild conference in Las Vegas on May 1st - woo! - and as I'm going on another trip in May to teach a few classes - it's not public yet, but you'll see it here first if you're interested in attending - I'll be suspending the Newbie Tuesday series until the end of May to give you a chance to try the products we've been making and offer feedback. (I'll still be blogging and such, but not doing this specific series...)

In the meantime, I'll be putting together the shopping list for the moisturizers, oil based serum, and creamy cleanser so you can get those things before we start that series in early June.

As another note, I'm still working on a few micellar water recipes I'm trying to get them just right, and I'll have a make-up remover recipe as well. I've also been working on some recipes with salicylic acid that I'll post as well. I just can't promise any of these things will be on Tuesdays. Not that I've been doing great with posting every Tuesday...

So, what do you think about what you've been making?


Elizabeth said...

would hand mixing with a stirring rod suffice? how about the minipro mixer from lotioncrafter, or is that considered a stick blender? thanks!!

Laura said...

Which ingredient acts as an emulsifier in this recipe? Zepimax Zen?

Kelly O'Reilly said...

Looking forward to this series on acids!

Clare J said...

Hi Susan, what's the sciency bit behind how the polymer turns the liquid into a gel? Why can some polymers emulsify oils and others can't? If you wanted to make a very light moisturiser, eg 5% oil, would you go for a gel or a normal emulsifier? Thanks.

Sara said...

Is there a reason we would use the AHAs in a serum as opposed to a cleanser? My understanding is that at a higher ph AHAs can slowly release from leave-on products as more of the acid 'frees up'. Aside from this, is there another reason AHAs would be more beneficial in serum form instead of rinse-off? Perhaps there isn't enough time for the acids to work?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Clare! Great question! I have been making more and more light moisturizers with 10% oils (or less) using Sepimax ZEN and Sepinov EMT10, and you'll see more of those coming soon. I'll share more about the science part then, if I can beg your patience for a few more weeks! There are good reasons for using normal emulsifiers, especially if you have dry skin, but using a gelling ingredient produces some really cool things!

Hi Sara! It depends on what you want the AHAs to do. I would suggest that using them in a serum, moisturizer, or other leave on product is probably a better idea as they'll stay on your skin longer, Where did you read about this? I'd like to see more about it as I can't wrap my head around the idea of using it in a higher pH product as they require a lower pH to work. If you could share a link, that would be great!