Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Newbie Tuesday: Making a gelled facial serum with oil using Sepimax ZEN

Wow, I just can't stay on schedule lately, and I apologize for that. I did write a few posts on making lip scrubs - yummy pear coconut scrub, a lovely jojoba & peppermint scrub, and a plumping peppermint & jojoba lip scrub - which go well with this series of making facial products. 

In our last Newbie Tuesday post, I mentioned making an oil containing gelled facial serum with Sepimax ZEN, so let's get to that!

This gelling ingredient is great at emulsifying oils, although don't believe them when they say it'll emulsify up to 40% oils. 10% works well for me, and anything over that tends to be a little problematic and I've seen separation. Besides, 10% oil is a lot in a serum when you have all kinds of other lovely ingredients to add to the mix!

You could take our gelled toner from last time and add 10% oil and make something awesome. Observe the modifications...

64% distilled water*
10% light oil or ester of choice* 
10% aloe vera
10% rose water
2% panthenol
0.5% allantoin
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

3% Sepimax ZEN

*Notice I've added 10% oil and removed 10% from the distilled water phase compared to the non-oil containing recipe. 

Using room temperature or slightly above room temperature water, add the ingredients in the slightly heated water phase and mix well. Sprinkle Sepimax ZEN on the water. Wait 8 hours. Do not mix during that time. I know you want to, but don’t! After 8 hours – ta da! You have a lovely thick gel!?"

Or you can put the powder in the water, mix lightly with a fork until the product is wetted, then start mixing. Start at a lower speed with a beater on a hand mixer, then move to a higher speed for about 10 minutes.

This will create quite a thick gel, so if you want it to be thinner, feel free to reduce the ZEN to 2.5% or even 2%. It will be thinner if you mix it than if you let it sit for 8 hours. (You'll see the next version uses 2% ZEN.)

What oils would work well here? I love squalane in a facial serum as it's super light and sinks in quickly. Fractionated coconut oil or pomegranate oil also produce really lovely products. You could try an ester, like cetearyl ethylhexanoate or C12-15 alkyl benzoate for a very light, moisturized, less greasy feeling product. Or try using 2% to 4% dimethicone with 6% to 8% light feeling oil for a silky feeling serum. Or try using ethylhexyl palmitate for a silky feeling product that is a lot like dimethicone. In short, you can use any oil you wish in this recipe and come out with something really awesome! 

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at adding an acidic ingredient, like AHAs, to our gelled facial serum! Woo! 

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants
Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe
Creating a facial toner (part one)
Creating a facial toner (part two)
Creating a facial toner (part three) - cosmeceuticals
Creating a facial toner (part four) - adding cosmeceuticals
Gels, gels, gels! Ultrez 20
Gels, gels, gels! Sepimax ZEN
Making a gelled toner with Ultrez 20
Making a lavender & chamomile gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20
Making a chamomile & cucumber gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20
Using Sepimax ZEN to make an oil free gel moisturizer

1 comment:

Sara said...

I've heard that using AHAs with clays can be problematic. I've contacted suppliers and asked if this could be a problem, but none of them seem to think this would be an issue. Is using AHAs and clay together more of a stability concern?