Emulsifiers: Emulthix, Srjnm asks: How would you compare Emulthix and Aristoflex? I know you have worked with both these cold emulsifiers. When would you use one over the other or what are the pros/cons of each? Which one do you like best? Thank you for sharing your experience with these ingredients. I've been interested in trying them.
I like both of them quite a lot. Aristoflex AVC is great for a light lotion without a lot of oils or electrolytes. If I wanted a facial moisturizer with lots of water soluble ingredients - like this one with n-acetyl glucosamine, allantoin, quaternized rice, and Yerba santa glycoprotein - Aristoflex is compatible and super easy to use. It can't handle a lot of oils - I've been using 5%, but you can go as high as 10%, I understand. The down side is that I can't use electrolytes or proteins with Aristoflex as they ruin the viscosity, but that could be solved by adding a new polymer I have called Sepimax ZEN* to the mix. (I'll be writing more about this ingredient shortly.)
've been experimenting with it at up to 25% oils, and it's worked well. I find I can make heavier feeling lotions with Emulthix, which is something I just haven't been able to do with Aristoflex AVC.
You use less Aristoflex AVC in a product at up to 2%, while Emulthix is used at 3% to 6%. They're roughly the same price, too.
Aristoflex AVC can handle a wider pH range - 4 to 9 versus Emulthix's 5.5 to 11 - so Aristoflex might be a better choice for thinner moisturizers with things like salicylic acid or AHAs.
It's hard to choose as they have different roles in my head. Aristoflex is for light lotions and gel-creams, while Emulthix is more like a traditional emulsifier that can handle a lot of oils. Hmm, I don't think I'll be able to make a decision any time soon as to which I prefer. I guess I should get into the workshop and make a few more things, eh?
Point of Interest: I do get free things from time to time from suppliers, and Jen at Lotioncrafter has given me the Emulthix and Sepimax ZEN. The quaternized rice protein and Yerba santa glycoprotein is from the Formulator Sample Shop. None of the links you click to any site on this blog affiliate links - I just learned what those were and thought I should re-assure you, my lovely readers, that I make no money and gain no reward if you buy something from any supplier anywhere. I provide you with buying information for those harder to find ingredients because you've said you wanted it!