Emulsifiers: Lotionpro 165 in a lotion, Alana asks: Can LotionPro emulsify 38% shea butter and 3% stearic acid along with 3% menthol crystals? What is the max capacity of this emulsifier to emulsify oils?
As Lotionpro 165 (aka Simulsol 165) is an oil-in-water emulsifier, we know the oil phase has to be 49% or lower.
Okay, this isn't strictly true because the determination of whether something is an oil in water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion isn't just about the amount of water or oil in a product. It's actually about the phase in which the emulsifier is more soluble. The higher the HLB value, the more soluble in water the emulsifier can be. Considering that Lotionpro/Simulsol 165 has an HLB value of 11, it's more soluble in water. So anything made with this emulsifier is considered an oil-in-water emulsion.
If you're interested in knowing more, click here to learn about the Bancroft rule.
I've done a ton of searches and I'm afraid I don't have an answer. There's nothing in the data bulletin or other materials from the company about the amount of oils it can emulsify. I have seen recipes that use a lot of oils - take for example, Lotioncrafter's amazing Body Bliss recipe that uses 36.5% oils for 3.5% Lotionpro 165 - but I can't f
As for whether it can emulsify 41% oil phase with 3% menthol crystals, I'd suggest bringing that down a notch to keep the phase below 40%, as that's generally the upper end of emulsifying you'll want to do. And just a question - with that much shea butter, do you need stearic acid at all? I know Lotionpro 165 is a really fluffy emulsifier, but shouldn't the shea butter be enough thickening for a product?
I ask because over on the Patreon feed I'm trying to duplicate Noxzema Classic Clean, and I created a product so thick, it was a ball of lotion, or as I'm calling it, a ball lotion™. (Patent pending!!!) Mine was done with stearic acid and cetyl alcohol, but it was so incredibly thick, you'd be shocked to find out there was water in it! (There was a ton of water in there as it's an oil-in-water lotion.)
If you've tried the 38% shea butter with 3% stearic acid, what was the result? I'm really curious now!
Sorry I can't find you a specific amount, but I'm thinking if you keep the oil phase below 40%, you should be fine.