Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Emulsifiers: Sepiplus 400

Sepiplus 400 (INCI: Polyacrylate 13 (and) Polyisobutene (and) Polysorbate 2) is a neat emulsifier that can be used cold to emulsify up to 50% oils in a lotion! It comes as a thick, opaque, pearly liquid that can be used as the sole emulsifier at 0.5% to 3% or as a thickener and stabilizer in a lotion at 0.2% to 3%. It can be heated, if you wish, but you can also use it cold, which is how I've been playing with it.

It is stable to a huge pH range from 2.5 to 11, so you can use it in all kinds of applications with low pH ranges, like gels or lotions with salicylic acid or AHAs like Multifruit BSC and lactic acid.

Leave the oils out and make a gel that can handle electrolytes, ethanol, glycerin, and glycols with all kinds of goodies for those of us who can't handle oils on our faces or bodies.

You can mix Sepiplus 400 with anything you have, stick blender, hand mixer, stationary mixer, and so on!

I've been using it to make cream gels - which is what we call a lotion made with this emulsifier - by putting together all the oily ingredients, mixing a bit, then adding the water phase while mixing. I continue to mix for a minute or two, then I'm done!

If you want to make aqueous gels or those without oils, just put together all the ingredients, and add the Sepiplus 400 to the container while mixing.

If you want to make gels with alcohol as the base, then you'd make the aqueous gel as above, then add the alcohol while stirring.

Here are few recipes I found from the company to show you the different ways you can use Sepiplus 400...
A basic cream gel recipe - substitute any oil you wish for the 20% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Pleasures of mineral balance cream gel - you can substitute the ethylhexyl palmitate with any light oil you wish, like fractionated coconut oil or another ester.

Where can you find Sepiplus 400? The only place I've found it is at Lotioncrafter. If you have other suggestions, please make them in the comments so others can find it, too!

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the first of three recipes I've made with Sepiplus 400!


James Holman said...

This looks so interesting. My soap cave is in my basement, and it is a pain to lug all my lotion stuff up to my kitchen - so something I do not need to heat would be great.

So my question, I am not sure what % of my oil phase I need to use? For instance, in your basic recipe you have 15% oil 5% butter and 3% thickener. This calls for 6% Polwax or BTMS-50 . So with Sepiplus 400, would I just use 3%, and add the other 3 to my water phase?

Thanks so much,


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi James! I love the idea of a soap cave! Although, it better have some soapy stalactites and stalagmites to be called a cave! :-)

If you want to convert it, do what you just said! When we change something, we generally alter the water phase by increasing or decreasing it to get 100% in the end.

You have me intrigued! Please come back to share what you're doing and have done! I'm really curious now!

James Holman said...

Haha. It is not a living cave. How would I cure soap in that kind of humidity?

I figure if some guys can have man-caves with mini-fridges of beer and big screen tv's that only play the 21 ESPN channels - I can call mine a soap cave. :) I do not have room to store all my stuff upstairs.

The order is shipping today from Lotioncrafters. I will let you know how it goes.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Humidity is not our friend. I should know! I live in a place that is so humid at times, it sets off the bath bomb fizz!

I'm excited to see what you make! I don't have time to play with everything, so I'm always eager to see how others enjoy an ingredient!

James Holman said...

Hey Susan,

I tried this emulsifier. My recipe was pretty simple:

water 67.50%
glycerin 3.00%

avocado oil 15.00%
cocoa butter 5.00%
cetyl alcohol 3.00%
IPM 2.00%
sepiplus 400 3.00%

fragrance 1.00%
preservitive 0.005

I made 200g of lotion. The FO I used was Nurture's blackberry sage with a touch of lavender EO.

Melted my cocoa butter and cetyl alcohol, added the IPM and avocado oil and the sepiplus 400. I mixed my water and glycerin, then added it to the oil phase. Almost instantly I got something like curds from cottage cheese. I took my stick blender to it, and mixed until it smoothed out. Then added my some phenonip and the scent.

It is thick. I put it into 2oz deli cups, as I was not sure I could get it into a bottle - and even if I did pipe it in there it would not have been easy to get out. Note for next time - skip the thickening agent.

So far I am liking it. Have samples out to a few co-workers. I will make some more this weekend without the cetyl alcohol.