Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Formulating a foaming facial cleanser good for lash extensions - version #2

We took a look at a foaming facial cleanser that might be good for lash extensions yesterday, and I thought we'd look at another version today.

58.5% distilled ater
10% foaming soy surfactant
10% witch hazel
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% marshmallow extract
5% white tea extract (liquid)
2% panthenol
2% quaternized rice (or another cationic polymer)
2% oat amino acids (or another hydrolyzed protein)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)

Weigh all ingredients into a container and mix well. Pour into foamer bottle. Rejoice! Please note: If you aren't heating and holding this product, please use distilled water only.

You'll notice many of the ingredients are the same as yesterday's version. That's because I like those ingredients and think them to be a good fit. I changed a few things, like the marshmallow extract and the quaternized rice. Marshmallow extract forms a film on your skin that helps to moisturize well. Make sure you are using the water soluble version, not the oil soluble one as it won't mix into this product well.

I used the quaternized rice because it is a positively charged cationic polymer that will offer conditioning to our skin. I love the rice version as it seems lighter than some of the other ones I've used.

What do I think? I really like this! I have to admit that I miss my honey matte from my previous version as that ingredient really helps my skin feel less greasy, but I really like the moisturization and conditioning I get from this cleanser.

If you have dry skin, you can still make this! I actually think this version would work well for you. If you wanted a little more moisturizing after using it, consider a water soluble oil like PEG-7 olivate or water soluble shea at up to 5%. If you do that, though, it may not work with lash extensions. (I haven't been able to confirm if water soluble oils work with lashes yet!)

What do you do if you don't have all these ingredients? Read some other versions and make one you'll like. Use whatever surfactants you like, but please include the cocamidopropyl betaine as it will increase mildness of your product. Use the extracts you like and see what you think.

One note about this recipe: It will last you ages! I make 100 ml every other month and it lasts me at least 60 days of washing morning and night. So when you try this, please only make 100 grams and see what you think of it!

Other versions of this recipe:
Creating a low foaming facial cleanser with silk surfactant
Creating a recipe using the foaming rice surfactant
Facial cleansers: Creating a low surfactant foaming cleanser (foaming silk)
What the heck is this and what can I do with it? Foaming silk
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser with foaming oat
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser: Substituting surfactants
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser: Substituting hydrosols
Modifying the low surfactant foraming cleanser: A few sample recipes with substitutions

*Formulator Sample Shop sent me these ingredients for free, and they expect nothing from me except my honest opinion on them. I receive no compensation from anyone for anything for this blog. My opinions expressed are my own. I take no advertising and do not write sponsored posts. I admit I have my biases about companies I like, but I like those companies because I like them, not because I have been paid to like them! 


Nanda said...

Hi Susan!

I know you're probably very busy but since I know that you really enjoy formulating with Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate I have a question for you about a formula, it would be highly appreciated if you or a fellow reader could help me troubleshoot this to see what's wrong.

I've done this formula before and it was a success, but this weekend I tried it out again and it was a complete failure even though I did everything as the last time, so I'm guessing it might be a temperature issue since I live in Sweden and it's winter here now.

The formula is:

Water phase:
53% H2O
10& Cocamidopropyl betaine
10% Sodium cocoyl isethionate (with stearic acid)
5% Coco glucoside
10% Aloe vera juice
2% Glycerin

Cool down phase
2% Hydrolyzed oat protein
2% Polyquaternium-7
2% Coco caprylate
2% Panthenol
0,5% Optiphen
~1% Fragrance
~1% Crothix

The issue here is that the SCI is mixed together with Cocamidopropyl betaine, I used a water bath and heated them and the rest of my water phase apart. BUT the SCI simply won't melt.

I've read online that it has a melting point of 200 degrees celcius which is very high, I would say even for a regular stove so I'm guessing a water bath simply won't do. When I mix the 2 phases together the SCI simply forms a film floating on top and won't mix at all no matter how much I try to stir it in.

How do you use SCI, and how high do you usually heat it before it dissolves? I'm used to having water evaporate quickly even with a water bath so it scares me to just put it over a regular stove top.

Thank you so much!

Susan said...

Hi Susan,
I have been reading many of your wonderful and informative posts of facial washes, etc., and I am looking forward to trying some out. I have quite an inventory of ingredients, but have not been able to find Peg-7 Olivate in Canada. With the Canadian dollar, exchange, and customs, it will cost me a small fortune to purchase from the US ... BUT, I am willing to do that if I have to. I have checked with every Canadian supplier I can think of, but can only seem to find it in the US when I google it. Before I give in and order it from the US, I thought I would ask you if you have found it in Canada? Thank you in advance!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nanda! I've had this happen with SCI in the winter. (I'm in Canada, but not a really cold part of Canada, but cold enough that it can reach -12˚C at times. Unfortunately, we are victims of global warming, and we haven't had a proper winter in three years! But I digress...)

Here are a few posts that might help...
The importance of temperature
Surfactants: SCI - lots of links in there relating to melting it and such as well as what happened when I left a product in a cold workshop.
More about melting SCI

I hope this helps. Let me know what you do next! I love to hear updates!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Susan! I have not found it in Canada, but you could ask Michele at Windy Point Soaps if she might consider getting it in. I love this stuff, and would love to buy it from her as I'm out now! I think I'll write to her now!

What are you using it in? Maybe I can find some substitutes. Or maybe I can order mine and share some with you? Let me know!

Susan said...

Hi Susan,
Thank you, I will check with Windy Point and put in another vote to bring in Peg-7. I am in Calgary, so if they could bring it in, that would be wonderful!

I am looking to create a gentle makeup remover, especially something that is gentle around the eyes. I currently use Cetaphil, which works, but why buy if you can formulate! In one of your posts, you mentioned the Fruit and Flowers Makeup Remover (Herbarie), which sounds lovely, so I thought I would start there.
I also make a very mild foaming facial cleanser for dry skin, but its not effective oat removing mascara and it is irritating around the eyes. I thought that if I could formulate a foaming cleanser with Peg-7, it might be gentle enough for the eye area.
The more I read, the longer the list gets of things I'd like to try Peg-7 in! And of course, you've piqued my interest on the new emulsifier that Windy Soap is carrying ... add that to my list!!

Nanda said...

Hi Susan!

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question. :)

I solved it by simply adding 30% cocamidopropyl betaine to 10% SCI (I talked to a chemist that has been doing a lot of testing with SCI and he realized that this is the golden percentage to make SCI dissolve completely. Since I didn't want to re-heat my previously made water phase due to the preservative and fragrance I added the melted surfactants to the cold water. At first it didn't mix, but after stick blending it for a while it all dissolved together and the crothix I previously added to the WP started working.

PS: The stick blending didn't cause any bubbles that rubbing alcohol spray couldn't fix, so you should definetely try this in the winter.

Have a lovely day!