Monday, February 15, 2016

Formulating a foaming facial cleanser good for lash extensions - version #1

I'm a huge fan of my foaming facial cleanser with foaming soy surfactant, but I thought I'd try a variation on this recipe that would be more suitable for normal to dry skin.

I started getting eye lash extensions in October because I have short eye lashes and I was tired of messing up my mascara. I get them filled every three to four weeks, and I'm so happy with them. It's easier to apply and remove make-up with my cleanser, and I'm wearing more eye make-up as a result.  The big thing to remember is that we can't use oil soluble ingredients with these lash extensions as it can ruin the cyanoacrylate glue. This isn't generally an issue for me as I avoid oils on my face because I'm already greasy enough, thanks! But I thought I'd put together a nice, mild facial cleanser that could be used as a make-up remover for someone who has lash extensions. Again, my foaming soy cleanser does this job well, but I had time in the workshop and wanted to play with some new ingredients, so I started formulating.

As always, ask yourself what you want this product to do. In this case, I want a facial cleanser that I can put into a foamer bottle. The cleanser has to be thin enough to come out of the bottle, and it needs to clean well without leaving one's skin feeling tight or dry. (This feeling is because the surfactants weren't rinsed off your skin properly, so we want to use lower concentrations of surfactants in this product.) I want it to remove the normal oils and dirt that I get every day, as well as removing my eye shadow and liner.

After choosing my surfactants - foaming oat and cocamidopropyl betaine - which are good for all skin types, I thought I wanted to use some extracts.

I added pomegranate extract (from The Formulator Sample Shop) as an anti-oxidant and conditioning agent. If you don't have this, add another anti-oxidant, like green tea extract, or add a conditioning agent like honeyquat or polyquat 7 at up to 3% in the cool down phase. Or leave them out entirely. I thought I'd include some white tea extract because it would be a nice anti-oxidant and offer a bit of astringency. I added oat hydrolysate (aka hydrolyzed oat protein) because I like to have a light film to offer moisturizing after I use my cleansers. And I used bamboo extract (from FSS again) as an anti-irritant and anti-oxidant. Finally, I added witch hazel as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient.

If you'd like more in-depth information on why I used these surfactants and such, please click on the link at the top of the page to see how I formulated the previous version. 

50.5% distilled water
15% witch hazel
10% foaming oat surfactant
5% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% white tea extract
5% bamboo extract G
5% pomegranate extract (water soluble)
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Weigh all the ingredients into a container, and mix well. Pour into foamer bottle, and you're done! Rejoice!

Please note: If you don't plan to heat this recipe, please use distilled water only. 

What do I think? I'll let Wanda share her thoughts: It works great! Leaves my skin feeling clean with no residue. I think it would work great for oily, normal, or combo skin.

That's lovely praise!

What do you do if you don't have all these ingredients? The key ones are the surfactants. You can use any surfactant at 10% and add the cocamidopropyl betaine to increase mildness and add a bit of foaminess. Add the extracts you like and have in your workshop, and see what you create!

One note about this recipe: It will last you forever! I make 100 ml every other month and it lasts me at least 60 days of washing morning and night. So when you try this, please only make 100 grams and see what you think of it!

Other versions of this product:
Creating a low foaming facial cleanser with silk surfactant
Creating a recipe using the foaming rice surfactant
Facial cleansers: Creating a low surfactant foaming cleanser (foaming silk)
What the heck is this and what can I do with it? Foaming silk
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser with foaming oat
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser: Substituting surfactants
Modifying the low surfactant foaming cleanser: Substituting hydrosols
Modifying the low surfactant foraming cleanser: A few sample recipes with substitutions

*Formulator Sample Shop sent me some of these ingredients for free, and they expect nothing from me except my honest opinion on them. I receive no compensation from anyone for anything for this blog. My opinions expressed are my own. I take no advertising and do not write sponsored posts. I admit I have my biases about companies I like, but I like those companies because I like them, not because I have been paid to like them! 

Join me tomorrow for another version of this recipe!


Sarah Hermsen said...

Hi Susan. I was looking for a facial cleanser recipe to use with lashes and was super stoked to see that you had done one as I love your recipes! Quick question, you say to use only distilled water if you're not heating it....does that mean no hydrosols? Also the only surfactant I have at the moment is decyl glucoside, will that be good? Also is lactic acid or sodium lactate just redundant to use in facial cleansers as they would just be washed off?
Hmmmm...that was more than a quick question!!! Thank you!!!! Hope all is well!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sarah. You can use hydrosols as long as they are preserved. And decyl glucoside is fine if you have a pH meter to make sure you get it into the acidic range. Yes, sodium lactate will be washed off, which is why I don't use it in any of my cleansers or body washes.

Hope this helps!