Monday, December 7, 2015

Designing your products as a line: Shampoo recipe for dry hair

As we saw last week (and in August!), we can alter the ingredients in our products when we're designing a line of things to be used together. If we're using a conditioner after shampoo, we could make something very basic that contains only surfactants, water, and preservatives that would cleanse our hair, but it wouldn't feel very nice when we rinsed. Let's take a look at what we could use and leave out given the review we've done in the last week. (Check out the posts below if you don't know what I'm talking about!)

Let's say you want to make a shampoo for someone with dry hair who will be using an intense conditioner afterwards. You don't necessarily need to use a cationic polymer, but it would make one's hair feel nicer in between shampoo and conditioning, so I'm suggesting it. Glycerin is a great moisturizer, so let's include that. I'm thinking we can leave out the panthenol because we'll use it in a conditioner, and and I'll leave out the protein. I think I'll include some chamomile extract to help with transepidermal water loss on the scalp in the cool down phase.

I'll base this recipe on this conditioning shampoo for dry hair recipe I've made in the past. If you don't have the glycol distearate, leave it out and thicken with Crothix. If you scroll down in that post, you'll see a recipe there for moisturizing using water soluble oils that doesn't use the glycol distearate.  The big difference between that recipe and this one are the changes I noted above.

62.5% distilled water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside (or a combination your hair likes)
2% glycol distearate
5% glycerin

3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

Heat the heated phase to 65˚C and mix together well until the glycol distearate is incorporated. (I have found that heating the glycol distearate in one container, the other ingredients in another until the glycol distearate has melted, then incorporating the two containers works well). Make sure you are not seeing any little shards of glycol distearate in the mix.

When the mixture has cooled to 45C or lower, add the cool down ingredients.

You may need to include up to 2% Crothix if you are using fragrance oils that include vanilla or other surfactant thinning fragrances. Add this when the product has cooled completely and can sit for at least 24 hours (preferably longer).

Not a huge difference between the original recipe and this one, except I've left out the aloe vera, protein, dimethicone, and panthenol. We're relying upon our glycol distearate to be both a moisturizing and a thickener in this product. If you don't use the glycol distearate, it is a very thin product. If you don't want to thicken it with Crothix, then put it in a pump bottle and use it that way. I'm not joking; this product is like water!

It's easy to modify any of the recipes you're currently using with the ideas of making a line in mind. Remove what you want, and increase the water by that percentage. Leaving out 2% dimethicone, add 2% to your distilled water amount. Removing 3% protein? Add 3% to the water amount.

Related post:
How do I modify the recipe when I add or substract an ingredient? 

Other posts in this series:
Shampoo - How does it work?
Shampoo - What's in it? Surfactants
Shampoo - What's in it? Other ingredients
Shampoo - Increasing mildness & viscosity
Shampoo - Conditioning agents
Shampoo - Dimethicone
Shampoo - Proteins and amino acids
Shampoo - Thickeners
Shampoo - Panthenol and other humectants
Shampoo - Extracts

Join me tomorrow where we take a look at modifying an oily hair shampoo!


Elisabeth said...

I remember having read (site only available in Swedish, sorry -- I can send you a link and translate the paragraphs if you want to delve deeper into the subject, though unfortunately I don't remember if they cited a source) that conditioning shampoos with both anionic and cationic surfactants "obviously won't" work, since the positively and negatively charged ingredients cancel each other out, and thus, the Wash&Go-types of shampoo are a waste of ingredients and money. OTOH, your experiences seem to suggest otherwise, and since Internet is chock full of all kinds of commonsense fallacies, it wouldn't surprise me if this is more or less bunk. (My experience is somewhat coloured by the fact that I've been using BTMS-225 for some time, and my 2-in-1 shampoos could be more conditioning. I now have a source of BTMS-50, presumably it works better.)
This sounds like a nice formula, bookmarking for testing after Christmas.

Kirk said...

Yes Elisabeth, I agree. But with Swift's formula above, there is no cationic surfactant. There is only a cationic polymer (Honeyquat and/or Polyquat-7). These polymers can be incorporated to products that have anionic surfactants, provided that the order of addition is correct.

Rocio GarcĂ­a said...

Hi dear Susan:

Could you say me, where do you buy SMC taurate and cocamidopropyl betaine?

Thanks for your helps

Have great day!!!

Brandi Yates said...

How does everyone like decyl glucoside? I havent tried it yet.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Elisabeth! What Kirk said! Are you using BTMS in a liquid shampoo? How are you getting it to stay emulsified>

Hi Rocio. I get my SMC taurate at the Herbarie and my decyl glucoside at Voyageur Soap & Candle.

Hi Brandi! I am starting a new series asking for people's opinions on things, and you're the first candidate. I'm posting that on Tuesday, December 15th, so make sure you visit that day to see the results! I'm hoping we get a load of comments.

Brandi Yates said...

Thank you!

Suzie T said...

I have used decyl glucoside in shampoo and in a child's shampoo & body wash. It worked very well. The only thing I did not like was that it hardened (because of the temperature, I assume) and even though I warmed it up and used it in a shampoo with other surfactants it was not the same. Kind of like when honey hardens and you heat it up. I got mine from Voyageur Soap & Candle and used their Green Shampoo recipe.

Nanette said...

I've been eyeing decyl glucoside for awhile and, in fact, used it yesterday for the first time. I wondered about adding 2% or so to a cleansing (trendy name Micellar Water) that I make and like a lot. So, that is what I did. I was making a large batch, 1500 grams, and kept 100 grams out. In 45 grams I added decyl glucoside and in the other half Foaming Silk. I did need to add a little citric acid solution to the decyl glucoside half to bring down the ph. Wow, I really liked the result. Just perfect. I believe it added the little extra I was looking for in removing a tough to remove mascara very gently. Absolutely to stinging in my very sensitive eye area.

Did not like the result nearly as much with the Foaming Silk (LotionCrafter). It did sting my eye (one sample formula per eye area). It also has an unpleasant and overwhelming scent, IMO.

Susan, thanks for all you do!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nanette! Thank you for sharing your experiences! This is awesome! It's funny because the foaming silk seems to be one of the only surfactantsthat doesn't sting my eyes! I wonder what the difference is. And yeah, the smell isn't great, but I find a drop or two of something that does smell nice clears that up for me! (I get the same thing with chamomile and BTMS!)

Hi Suzie! How cold is the space in which you're storing it? I have that happen all the time in my unheated workshop!

juju 'oman said...

Hi! I love your blog. I have been making soaps, lotions and oils for over 20 years. However, i just cant seem to get shampoo right. Maybe i keep thinking about it and treating it as if i was just making liquid soap. it keeps seperating after a day. Please help me.. what am i doing wrong? Oh im using this shampoo recipe. Can i throw it back on the stove and cook it like you can liquid soap when it starts to separate?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Juju! Check out the hair care section of the blog for easier shampoo recipes than this one. You cannot throw it back on the stove if it separates as you'll ruin the preservative system. That's why I suggest an easier recipe without glycol distearate in it.

What recipes are you trying to make that aren't working? Maybe we can figure out why they aren't working!

juju 'oman said...

Hi susan,

I used the recipe from your site with a few changes ...

47% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% decyl glucoside
10% aloe vera
.5% Irish moss
.5% guar gum
.5% glycerin

5% honeyquat

0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils

my hair does not do well with silicones or protein, so I left that out. I premix the guar gum and the Irish moss and add it to the water phase.

juju 'oman said...

I think that was my way of trying to make a cowash

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Juju 'oman! What did you think of it?