Friday, December 4, 2015

Designing your products as a line: Shampoo - a few notes about oils

I'm asked a lot about including oils in shampoo, and I have to admit I'm not a fan of the idea. It's not just because I'm an oily haired girl, but because there are a ton of ways of increasing moisturizing and hydrating in a shampoo that isn't about the hassle of oils.

The goal of a shampoo is to clean our hair of oil, dirt, and other nasty things, leaving it feeling in good condition. I expect we will be using a conditioner afterwards, so we can get most of our conditioning and moisturizing from that product. Adding oils will reduce the foam, lather, and bubbles in our shampoo. It can also leave your product cloudy, which can bug some people.

There are other ways to get moisturizing into a shampoo that isn't oil based. For instance, something like Crothix behaves as a moisturizer and thickener without reducing the foam and lather. We could use a thickener like glycol distearate to do the same thing with a more moisturizing. We could use a water soluble oil like PEG-7 olivate or water soluble shea or try a humectant like glycerin.

If you want to include an oil in your shampoo, use a small amount like 2% to 4%. Ensure your surfactants are able to emulsify the oil, or use a solubilizer like PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to ensure it stays in the mix. (As a note, solubilizers will reduce the foam, lather, and bubbles, too.)

Join me on Monday when we create a few formulations knowing what we know about designing our products as a line!

1 comment:

Sandra said...

Agreed - I have dry hair and oil still feels absolutely disgusting in my hair (whether just a bit on my ends or a bit in conditioner). Especially not a fan of coconut oil, in my hair or on my face.