Monday, November 30, 2015

Designing your products as a line: Shampoo - hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids

I love including hydrolyzed proteins in my shampoo, but is there a point in using it if you're including  it in your conditioner?

I admit that I have a huge weakness when it comes to proteins in my products. I kinda collect them - I've used many different ones, including hydrolyzed oat protein, hydrolyzed silk protein, Phyokeratin, keratin hydrolysate, pisum sativum, lupine amino acids, and more - so I'm a bit biased when asked if they should go into a shampoo. Keep that in mind as you read this post...

Proteins, amino acids, and their like offer film forming and moisturizing for our hair strands and our scalp, both of which are a good thing. They increase mildness in a surfactant product like shampoo, They offer conditioning because they are slightly positively charged, and they make the product feel slightly silkier or softer. They can counteract the feeling of dryness we can get after using a surfactant, and they might slightly thicken the product.

Is there a point to using a protein in a shampoo when you're planning to use a conditioner afterwards that contains it? In my products, I'd use a protein. Why? Because I've tried my shampoos without them and I think I feel a difference. (Remember, this is only my opinion!)

Having said this, proteins are not the cheapest ingredients you'll use, although you only need a little to make a big difference. Can we get the qualities proteins offer in another way? Yes, we can. There are other ways to moisturize our hair and scalp without oils by using humectants. There are other ways to increase mildness,by using things like Crothix or cationic polymers. And there are other ways to film form by using things like aloe vera.

So do we have to use proteins if we'll be using them in a conditioner or if we prefer not to use them at all? No, leave it out if you wish. I'd include them because I like them, but you can leave them out if you wish. You won't be making a terrible product, and you can get benefits from using it in your conditioner only.

As a note, we'll be putting together a bunch of different recipes at the end of this series, but you can feel free to drop things and add them in any recipes you find on this site! 

Other posts in this series:
Shampoo - How does it work?
Shampoo - What's in it? Surfactants
Shampoo - What's in it? Other ingredients
Shampoo - Increasing mildness & viscosity
Shampoo - Conditioning agents
Shampoo - Dimethicone

No comments: