Monday, July 27, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers - like Cromollient SCE - but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos.

One of my favourites is water soluble olive oil (INCI: PEG-7 olivate), also known as olive oil esters.

PEG-7 olivate is an odourless and clear to pale yellow ingredient with a pH of 5 to 7, an HLB of 11, and a shelf life of three years. It's soluble in water and alcohol and dispersible in oils. It can be used as a light solubilizer for other ingredients like essential or fragrance oils, and it plays well with gels! Although it's a light feeling ester, it isn't a non-greasy one like cetearyl ethylhexanoate or IPP, and won't reduce the feeling of greasiness in your products. (If you use PEG-7 olivate instead of olive oil in your creations, it will feel lighter and less greasy than the same product with olive oil, but it doesn't feel less greasy on its own.)

I am a huge fan of this ester because you can use it in just about everything! It's used as an emollient, lubricant, anti-irritant, solubilizer, and thickener. It won't reduce foaming in your lathery surfactant products, and it will offer slightly creamier feeling suds, emolliency, and "oil free" moisturizing. It also acts as a thickener, although the thickening I've experienced has been very minor and I wouldn't consider it a true thickener like Crothix or glycol distearate. In my experience, it will thicken water based products, like toners or make-up removers slightly. And as an anti-irritant, it will increase the mildness of your foamy surfactants to make for a more gentle facial or body cleanser.

PEG-7 olivate is a fantastic inclusion in hair care products - shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner, styling gels - as an "oil free" moisturizer. You can use it in your cleansers as an additional cleansing ingredient - it's safe for your eyes! - and you can use it in toners or water based body sprays to increase the emolliency. You can use this in a moisturizer as your oil portion to create an "oil free" moisturizer.

51.5% water
2% honeyquat
3% PEG 7 olivate (water soluble olive oil)
10% SMC Taurate (liquid)
8% Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile
3% hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus)
1% fragrance or essential oil (optional)

Mix together. Package in foamy bottle. Rejoice.

Related recipes:
Using PEG-7 olivate in body wash recipes
Using PEG-7 olivate in shampoo recipes
Oil free gel moisturizer
Formulating an eye gel - version 2
Recipe round up: Make-up removers
Using PEG-7 olivate in a body wash (again!)
Foamer bottle facial cleanser
Combining esters in a leave in conditioner
Creamy exfoliating facial cleansers for different skin types
Another foamy facial cleanser recipe
3-in-1 body wash and shampoo 


ChrisB said...

Hi. Can this be used to dissolve water a soluble ingredient that you would love to add to an anhydrous product, like a lip balm?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi ChrisB. No. It's great for getting oil soluble things into a water soluble product, but not the other way around. If you want to add a water soluble thing to a lip balm, you'll need an emulsifier.

ChrisB said...

Thanks Susan. I figured it would be too easy! LOL

adinda putri said...

Hi Susan,

just wanna leave some comments here. I realy like your blog. It's so informative. In my country, it isn't easy to make our own cosmetic because of the regulation. There is no such a raw material cosmetic shop as I saw in some blog from Europe or anywhere.

For this olive oil ester, i think because Olive oil has big molecule it makes the greesy feel even if became an ester, Maybe.

Thankyou Susan!