Thursday, July 23, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Pumpkin seed oil

I'm a huge fan of pumpkin seed oil for a number of reasons. It's an inexpensive oil that's easy to find at many suppliers' shops. It has a nice balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids with some nice levels of Vitamin E. It has a decent shelf life, and doesn't have a strong smell. It is a light to medium feeling sort of greasy feeling oil that feels very nice on my skin.

This one is a staple in my workshop. Some oils come and go from my workshop depending upon price and shelf life, but pumpkin oil is always there (along with soy bean oil and rice bran oil). I like the way it feels in just about any product in which I could add some oils.

You can use pumpkin seed oil in any recipe that requires an oil. (Question: Can you substitute one oil for another?) Try it wherever you might use rice bran, sesame seed, or olive oil.

I really like it in my emulsified scrubs as it offers a nice, less greasy feeling after rinsing. I use it in lotions and whipped butters. I use it in cuticle balms and sugar scrub bars. Yep, this is one of those oils I use in everything!

10% Rita BTMS-225
10% cetyl alcohol
20% cocoa butter
56% pumpkin oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil
add sugar to preference as per the notes below...

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.

Please note, you can substitute a variety of different emulsifiers for the Ritamulse BTMS-225, including Incroquat BTMS-50, Incroquat BTMS-25, Polawax, and e-wax, to name a few. Just use your chosen emulsifier at 10% as noted in the recipe above.

Related recipes:
Sugar scrub bars
Emulsified scrub
Whipped butter
Cuticle balm with Lipidthix
Making a light lotion
Zinc oxide lotion 


Diane said...

The only pumpkin seed oil I ever used was green, green, green - and it stained! I notice in your picture it's more gold. It's such a delicate balance, to have a product like that; it's almost a trade-off for nice oils - the product or the garment, which will it be? I've since stuck with coconut oil as a main ingredient. Also,avocado oil is sometimes green and sometimes not - Why do these oils come in various colors?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Diane. Oils are botanical ingredients, so they can differ wildly based climate, time of year, way of pressing, and so on.