Wednesday, July 22, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Volumizing complex

I've been using the Volumizing Complex from the Formulator Sample Shop* in my leave in conditioner for quite a few years, and I won't make a leave in without it!

The INCI for this product is Water & Rice Amino Acids & Lactobacillus/Date Fruit Ferment Extract & Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluorethyl PEG Phosphate. The rice amino acids will work like hydrolyzed proteins as film formers and moisturizers with the smaller form being able to penetrate our hair shaft, the lactobacillus/date fruit ferment extract is something I have to study further, but it's the poly...thingie...phosphate that interests me the most! But I'm having trouble finding more information about this ingredient! (Click here for the data sheet!)

I found this in Cosmetics Business magazine about this ingredient. "It is claimed that the amino acids penetrate the cuticle, adding moisture and improving the strength of hair. The fluorinated material is said to bind to the hair, giving it bounce and volume, and the enzyme material converts saturated fatty acids in and on the hair into unsaturated fatty acids with a lower melting point, and these add shine and smoothness." This sounds really good, but notice the words "it is claimed..." or "is said...", which indicate that they're pretty much reporting a press release, not a study. Amino acids are good for our hair as film formers, and the enzyme material (the lactobacillus part) could be great for converting stuff, but this isn't evidence. The impression I get is that the poly-thingie-phosphate is a bit like Teflon for your hair - the hairs won't stick to each other, giving you more volume. (Don't quote me on that! It's just a thought...)

In a search, when I found products that used this ingredient, they were generally aimed at the curly haired amongst us. It is advertised as being good for curl retention and volume. It should be used in the cool down phase at 1% to 5%.

1% Incroquat BTMS-50
1% Incroquat CR
2% cetrimonium chloride

80% distilled water
0.5% polyquat 44

2% panthenol (liquid)
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
3% volumizing complex
2% kera straightening
3% lycopene bioferment
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate from Voyageur Soap & Candle)

Use the general conditioner making instructions for this product.

Don't know what these ingredients are? Check out the hair care products section of the blog to learn more! If you don't have an ingredient, check out that section to see what you could use instead! 

I really feel a difference in my hair when I use this ingredient. People notice that my hair looks curlier and I find that it feels less coarse. I do feel that it is better moisturized when using this ingredient than without. This is definitely one of my favourite things!

*Please note that I receive free samples of ingredients from the Formulator Sample Shop. I am not obgliated to write about them, nor do I feel I have to be nice in my reviews of the ingredients. I really like this ingredient, and wanted to share it with you! 

Related recipes:
Leave in conditioner with volumizing complex
Experiments in the workshop: Leave in with lycopene bioferment


Kelli Spears said...

Hi Susan! I love the Volumizing Complex also. It's kind of expensive but I really noticed a difference the first time I formulated a conditioner with it and now I use it every time I make conditioner and leave-in conditioner.
I also love an ingredient sold by Ingredients to Die For called Ultra Pure Gel. INCI name: Sclerotium Gum. It's very expensive also but you do not have to use a lot so that is a plus. I have used it in so many formulas. It will form a gel in water that has a really nice skin feel and is not sticky or tacky at all. Even after it dries on your skin. It doesn't have to be neutralized either. A suggestion for other people for just a gel in water so you don't have to guess or waste any of this ingredient: I use it at .25% in my shampoo formula, which is 12.5 grams(I make LARGE batches of shampoo and conditioner cuz I sell a lot). I use a stick blender and mix the 12.5 grams in 250 grams of water from my water phase in a separate vessel. It has to hydrate but it doesn't take long. I mix until it's all incorporated and it will start to thicken very fast. That's it! You will then have a nice thick gel. It doesn't emulsify anything so you couldn't add oils or fragrance/essential oils without using an emulsifier. I haven't experimented with that but I think you could heat and hold some water, let it cool and add some other water soluble ingredients of your choice to make a hair gel. Maybe the volumizing complex and Polyquat 44. So many possibilities. It does say in the description for this ingredient that it is a good suspending agent. It's heat tolerant and compatible with all kinds of ingredients, including cationic ingredients.

I think both the Volumizing Complex and the Ultra Pure Gel are worth the price. At least a small amount to try them in formulation. Of course, then you may be hooked like I am and won't want to formulate certain things without them. LOL!!

Caroline Black said...

Emailed you susan !

Maggie said...

Thanks Susan and Kelli
It is 13.00 for 2 oz, but you can use it at 1% to get the same benefit.
I hope that helps.
Thank you,

Anonymous said...

Like you, I can't live without the Volumizing Complex in my hair products!
-beth d.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Beth! I love love love volumizing complex!