Monday, July 20, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Niacinamide

I am finding I'm using niacinamide more and more in my products lately. It's not just for facial products for me; I'm finding use for it in body butters as well!

The claims for niacinamide are pretty substantial and they are backed up by studies and good science. Studies have shown that 2% in a facial moisturizer can increase skin's keratin, ceramides, and barrier lipids which results in a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and an increase in collagen synthesis. 2% can result in a 23% reduction in sebum production and pore diameter. It can reduce hyperpigmentation of age and sun spots. And it can reduce the damage from environmental causes, which reduces the irritation, inflammation, and skin redness from things like the sun, cold, or weather as well as application of straight SLS.  Even at 5%, there's a lack of irritation and redness on our faces ('cause sometimes niacin can make our skin flush, but not at 2% or 5%). It can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and decreases skin blotchiness and "pebbling" or roughness on facial skin. It also behaves as an anti-inflammatory and enhances skin's barrier functions.

It is a water soluble, heat tolerant ingredient, so I've been using it in the heated water phase of my products. I really like it in toners and facial moisturizers, as well as body lotion products. It's an inexpensive ingredient that goes a very long way! (I'm loving this body wash I made with it a while ago, too!)

73.5% distilled water
10% peppermint hydrosol
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
2% niacinamide

5% liquid cucumber extract
2% panthenol
2% MoisturPlex Advanced
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Heat the distilled water, peppermint hydrosol, calendula extract, and niacinamide to 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. We'll want to compensate for condensation as we heated the heated phase, so measure all the ingredients and container before you heat it, and measure it when you remove it from the heat. Add enough water to get back to the original weight. Let this cool down to 45˚C. The add the cool down phase and mix well.  Cool down to room temperature, then pour into a bottle for use. I like to use a spray bottle or mister so I can spray it on my face, but feel free to use any clean and unused bottle with any kind of cap.

Products that contain niacinamide...
Making a water-in-silicone serum
Creating a body butter for colder, drier months


Gisele Paul said...

Hello Susan,

Thank you for this wonderful blog. I am assuming that your final pH for this product is between 5-6, correct?

Ana said...

Dear Susan, I also tried to put Niacianmide in my creams and lotions, but alas, it caused quite an irritation! And it wasn't just me -both my daughter and her friend had adverse reaction to it. I must say that I bought it from 'Ingredients to die for' - maybe it is just their product was not good??

cynthia heitkemper said...

Hi Susan,

Can I use niacinamide in capsule form to add in making facial cream?

Thanks a lot.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Gisele. Yes, my products are always pH balanced!

Hi Ana. It's hard to say what caused the problem. Have you used the product in question before without the niacinamide? I would write to the company and see if they've heard of other problems.

Hi Cynthia! I wouldn't use something that wasn't approved for cosmetics in products. There are different standards for food and cosmetics, and we don't know what the other fillers are in the capsules and how they will react in a product.

Erica Kenyon said...

Guess what I just learned recently!! Niacinamide cannot be used with citric ingredients or it can cause skin irritation! I swear this is a new "rule" that was added recently, but maybe that is the problem for Ana. It was quite irritating to me in my lotion when I scented with sweet orange and I had to do some serious digging to find out why.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erica! Could you send me the link for that information so I can update the blog?

Elyse Duffy said...

What is the reason for heating the formula? Would it work as a cold process?