Thursday, July 16, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Hydrolyzed proteins

I love love love hydrolyzed proteins of all sorts! They are water soluble proteins that offer film forming, hydrating, and moisturizing. They can make your products feel silkier and glidier, and can make your skin feel nicer and more moisturized. Some are small enough to penetrate your skin, moisturizing from within, and others form a film to moisturize that way. They can increase the mildness of surfactant mixes for face, skin, and hair.

For years, my go-to protein has been hydrolyzed oat protein, but lately I've been trying a bunch of different ones, including hydrolyzed silk protein, lupine protein, pisum sativum peptide, and keratin hydrolysate, to name a few.

How to use a hydrolyzed protein? You can use them in the heated water phase of just about any product for your hair and skin. They are water soluble, so you can't add it to things like balms or whipped butters without including an emulsifier. I like to use hydrolyzed proteins in my conditioners, leave in conditioners, body washes, facial cleansers, under eye gels, moisturizers, lotions, and just about everything else.

From this post...

10% cocamidopropyl betaine
15% ACI
15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
15% water
10% rosemary hydrosol
10% witch hazel
10% aloe vera
0.5% polyquat 44
2% cetrimonium chloride
3% glycerin
2% lupine amino acids
2% PEG-7 olivate
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
1% fragrance oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (preservative)
1.5% liquid white willow bark extract

Mix the surfactants and water in a suitably large container and mix well with a fork until it is all gooey and not looking like water with some stuff in it. (Try not to get too many bubbles in the mix, as it can take days for it to come out!) Mix all the rest of the ingredients. If you want this to be thicker, you can add 1% Crothix, then mix well. Add another if it needs it, mix well, and so on until you reach no more than 5% Crothix. If it is still too runny, you can put it in a pump bottle to make it easier to use.

You can use powdered proteins in powdered products, like this finishing powder.

FINISHING POWDER (by volume, not weight)
3 tbsp treated serecite
1 tsp micronospheres
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk

(A scoop is 0.15 cc.) Mix together and put in an appropriate container.

Related recipes with hydrolyzed proteins:
Making a body wash for dry skin
More body washes for dry skin
Men's body wash!
Pisum sativum and coconut oil conditioner
Coconut oil rinse off conditioner
Formulating for dry skin: Toners
Toners for the oily skin type
Conditioning shampoo for dry hair 
Conditioning shampoo for oily hair


Paige B said...

First, hope you are well on the mend!

I'm wondering about the difference between hydrolyzed ___ protein vs. ____ amino acids. I was looking at lupine protein at FSS and they have both hydrolyzed protein and amino acid versions and I'm wondering which one to get. The description for the silk amino acids I purchased at LotionCrafter says that the smaller molecular weight amino acids penetrate and work better that hydrolyzed proteins. Any insights?

Vanessa M. said...

I came in to ask the same question Paige B asked. I am trying to figure which of the proteins work best for hair products. Specifically those products that cater to coarse and coily textures. Thank You!

Thabi said...

Hi Susan

Would you recommend adding hydrolysed proteins to an oil (oil and the protein being the sole ingredients)?

For example a hydrolysed silk with almond oil as a facial oil?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

No. As I mention in the post, they are water soluble.