Monday, June 22, 2015

Six ingredient lotions: Rice bran & mango butter body lotion

Marina's recent experiment with changing just one ingredient in a lotion to see what it does inspired me to bring back the six ingredient lotion challenge! What's a six ingredient lotion? It's one that contains six ingredients not including the water, preservative, and fragrance or essential oil. It helps us get back to the basics when it's so easy to go nuts including every ingredient we have in the workshop!

Related posts:
Six ingredient lotion: Shea, soy bean & sesame oil
Six ingredient lotion: Meadowfoam & cocoa butter
Six ingredient lotion: Cetearyl ethylhexanoate & cocoa butter

Let's take a look at a six ingredient lotion using my basic lotion recipe. (You can use any recipe you like. I'm choosing this one as it's the easiest to adapt and can make all kinds of different lotions!)

68.5% water

24% oil
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)

1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Feel free to use another preservative appropriate for oil-in-water lotions. To learn more, visit the preservative section of the blog!

What could we make with this recipe? We can make just about any lotion you wish with this recipe depending upon the ingredients we include. For instance, if we want to create a body butter type product, we'd use more butters than oils. If we want to create a hand or body lotion, we might use a bit of butter and more oils. If we want to create a moisturizer, we'd leave out any thickeners and butters to keep it quite thin.

I think I'll create a body lotion with some oils, butters, and thickeners.

First, let's choose an emulsifier. I think I'll go with Polawax because it goes with pretty much every ingredient I want to use. It's fairly foolproof and works with the 24% oil phase I've chosen. You could also use Ritamulse SCG, Incroquat BTMS-50, or Lotionpro 165 in this lotion. (I'd go down to 4% for the Lotionpro 165 or Incroquat BTMS-50 and increase the water by 2%.)

What should I use as an oil? I really like rice bran oil. It's a great light to medium oil with tons of phytosterols to help with inflammation and polyphenols. I think it feels about medium greasy. Way less than something like soy bean oil but more than evening primrose or pomegranate oil. It contains a nice balance of oleic and linoleic acid, and it isn't too expensive.

You can use a combination of oils here, but I'm choosing just one so I can include other ingredients since I'm limited to six. 

Should I include a butter? I can, but at a lower level than I would for a body butter. Mango butter is a great inclusion in a lotion as it's a less greasy feeling butter that isn't too expensive. It'll thicken up the product a bit, but not as much as cocoa butter would, for instance.

Should I include a thickener? I would like one in this product to make it slightly thicker than a moisturizer. The butter will thicken it, but the inclusion of something like cetyl alcohol at 3% will make it feel glidy, slick, and thicker. I could use stearic acid if I wanted it to be thicker but not so glidy or cetearyl alcohol if I wanted it to be thicker and a little more waxy feeling.

What else could I choose for this lotion? I could add things to the water phase. I would like a humectant to draw water from the environment to my skin and hydate it further. Let's go with glycerin as it's a great, inexpensive humectant.

Hmm, I have one ingredient left to choose. What could I choose? I could choose from so many ingredients, I couldn't list them here! I think I'll include allantoin at 0.5% in the heated water phase because it's a fantastic skin protectant that softens skin (it's a keratolytic, meaning it causes the keratin to soften), causes rapid cell regeneration and proliferation, and is approved by the FDA to temporarily prevent and protect chafed, chapped, cracked, or windburned skin by speeding up the natural processes of the skin and increasing the water content. It offers so much for so little, and it's inexpensive, too!

So what does our lotion look like now?

65% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

15% rice bran oil
6% mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
6% Polawax

1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. (To learn how to compensate for evaporation, click here.)

2. Weigh out your heated oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70˚C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (This is a very cool closely. It's emulsified! It's lotion!)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45˚C.

5. Let cool to 45˚C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), put into a bottle (with a pump, if possible), jar, or malibu bottle, then use. Rejoice for you have made a lotion!

This will give us a low to medium greasiness, medium viscosity lotion suitable for a hand or body lotion.

Want to learn more about lotion making? Check out this post on lotion making for newbies!

Join me tomorrow as we play with another six ingredient lotion!


LS said...

EEEEK! Mango and rice bran is my favorite combination. The mango keeps the rice bran from feeling too heavy, and my skin is just silky after I use it. If I'm going heavier, I'll choose shea and avocado. I so love figuring out these ingredients and formulas! And I'm so grateful for your blog!

Anonymous said...

... but but but... there are so many amazing oils to choose from... and extracts to add....what about alpha and beta hydroxys...collagen and hydrolyzed could I possibly decide??? Thanks for making me crazy with indecision!!!
Can I claim dyslexia for this challenge and read the 6 as a 9? :-)
Enjoy your blog as always,

Laura said...

Will try...I love the simplicity.

Dian Tardiff said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
WEND said...

Where can I buy Allantoin? I never heard of it before but then again I'm new to lotion making

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi LS! I love that combination, too!

Hi Jennifer! I know, 9 seems much easier. But I find it's a good thing for me to get back to basics now and then as it's so easy to go nuts with all my extras. I have a workshop of stuff that I can use, and I often get analysis paralysis while looking at the shelves.

Hi WEND. I'm answering your question in Saturday's Weekend Wonderings, but the short answer is to check out the suppliers section of the FAQ and find a location near you!