For some people, soy bean oil might be a little greasy for the hands, but it's perfect for a body lotion or foot lotion! Let's make a moisturizing foot cream with soy bean oil. Why include it here? Because it offers great moisturizing with all that oleic and linoleic acid, great softening with all that Vitamin E, and reduction in swelling with all those phytosterols. And those things all feel pretty lovely on our feet.
I think I'll use a body butter type recipe for this foot cream because it's rich and decadent and feels absolutely lovely. Here's the starting recipe I'll be modifying...
BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE
2% sodium lactate or glycerin
15% shea butter
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
cocoa butter because it's a great barrier ingredient and occlusive. I'll choose soy bean oil as the oil for the reasons I listed above. I think I'll add some dimethicone as a barrier protectant ingredient in the cool down phase as well. And I'm using stearic acid as the thickener. There! My oil phase is decided!
How to figure this out? If I look at the recipe above, I'll use 8% soy bean oil and 2% dimethicone as my oil amount, 15% cocoa butter, and 3% stearic acid for the cetyl alcohol. I will up my emulsifier of choice, Polawax, to 7% to reflect the 25% rule.
The rule for Polawax - and only for Polawax - is that we use 25% of the oil phase as the emulsifier. So if we have 28% oils we would use 7% Polawax. This is only applicable to Polawax. If you are using another emulsifier, please check the suggested usage rate.
This would be a great place to use Ritamulse SCG as the emulsifier. If that's your choice, you would want to use 8% in the oil phase and remove 1% from the water phase. (If you don't know why I'm removing water from the water phase, please read this post...) You could also use Incroquat BTMS-50 (not BTMS-25) as the emulsifier, but reduce it to 6% and add 1% to the water phase.
All right! We have an oil phase that looks like this...
HEATED OIL PHASE
8% soy bean oil
15% cocoa butter
3% stearic acid
COOL DOWN PHASE
Join me tomorrow as we figure out the water phase for this thick and decadent foot cream!