Saturday, January 3, 2015

Weekend Wonderings: How can I modify a cleanser recipe for a foamer bottle?

In this post on facial cleansers, Esther asks: I'm interested to put this into a foamer bottle. How much extra water would you add in that case?

If you want to put a surfactant blend into a foamer bottle, in general, you'll want to add double the amount of water to the mix to make it very watery. So if you have 100 grams of product, you'll want to add 200 grams of water to the product. Mix very well, and add to the foamer bottle. Easy peasy, right? No, wait, we're missing something. We need to add some more preservative to the mix to make sure it stays nice. We have enough preservative in the product for 100 grams, but not for 300 grams. So add your favourite preservative at the recommended amount - mine would be liquid Germall Plus at 0.5% for a total of 1 gram more - into the water and then combine together. 

Having said this, when you dilute the cleanser, you dilute those ingredients we've added to be great for our skin. So instead of having 2% hydrolyzed oat protein, you now have 0.67 grams of oat protein, which is going to feel different on your skin. If this concerns you - and I know it would concern me because I've put in the effort to research and include some lovely ingredients in my cleansers - then you'd want to scale the recipe to include more water and keep those ingredients at good concentrations. (Check out the recipes to which I've linked below for more ideas...) 

So there is a slightly easier way to do things...don't add the thickener to the cleanser. In general, our surfactant mixes tend to be quite watery before we add in the Crothix or glycol distearate or other thickener, so leaving out the thickener means it might be thin enough to put in a foamer bottle. Try this approach first, then diluting it with water to get it into that bottle! 

Related posts: 


Esther Tobin said...

Wow, I get my very own blog entry!!!

That's exactly what I was wondering about, the ratio of the goodies in relation to the added water. Thank you for answering my question so thoroughly. I'll try it without the thickener to keep all the other ingredient levels high. Thanks also for the prompt sending of your eBook.

Susanna Originals said...

Thank you, that not only answers a question, it is a "duh" moment: why didn't I think of that? I made your basic body butter recipe with aloe hydrasol and hemp butter and loved it so much I wanted to try it as a lotion. But didn't want to dilute the good stuff.
One related question: I used cetyl alcohol as directed and found that when the butter had kind of a soap-like application before it melted into the skin. Is that the cetyl alcohol? It wasn't unpleasant, just different from other creams I've made.
Oh yeah, and if I decrease the polawax 5%, should it be the water that is increased or can it be the oil or butter?

Esther Tobin said...

Update: Here's a video of how it performs without the Crothix (maintaining all other ingredients the way you suggested them).

I have to say I'm happy with it. I had a speck of rosacea around my eye that at first visibly relaxed (those with rosacea will know what I mean) and then disappeared almost immediately, and my skin feels very soft and smooth now (I use no moisturizer, because I'm also acne-prone). Skin is maybe a little tight right after the wash but recovers within a reasonable amount of time. Next job: moisturzing toner! Ingredients are on their way. :0)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Susanna. I think you're talking about the soaping effect? Take a look at that post and see what you think.

If you decrease the Polawax by 5%, increase the water. If you increase the oil/butter, you have to increase the Polawax again. Check out this post on the oil phase.

Hi Esther! I'm glad it is working for you! Let us know how the toner works out!