Thursday, December 4, 2014

Weekday Wonderings: Using BTMS-25 in solid scrub bars? Making oil free moisturizers?

In this post, Incroquat BTMS-50 in solid scrub bars, Birgit asks: Update on the scrub bar: even though it was soft, I took it to shower after I had "cured" it for a few days. First, I was quite thrilled, the level of scrubbiness was very nice, and it went on well. The problem arose when I tried to rinse it off - I felt like I was covered in thick layer of waxy butter that would not let go of me. I eventually ended up using a different scrub to scrub this butter off of me. And that worked out fine. Except that now I had spent twice the time and twice the scrub to clean myself so that sure wasn't what I expected. So to recap, I did the recipe as written, except used a 60% strength sodium lactate, and upped the amount to have the right amount of it in the scrub, and I did only have BTMS-25, so used that. But from one of your articles I gathered that I could use it in a bar, just would get slightly stickier product. So what went wrong? 

BTMS-25 can be a substitute for BTMS-50 in many situations, but sometimes it just doesn't work. The BTMS-50 in this recipe is there to be an emulsifier to help the product rinse off cleanly. If you are using BTMS-25, it means you are using half the emulsifier that I used and it won't rinse off as well. In addition, BTMS-25 contains cetearyl alcohol, which feels waxier on the skin than the cetyl alcohol we find in BTMS-50.

It could also be that you don't like the skin feel of this product once it has rinsed off because it is intended to leave behind lotion like feeling that can be a bit waxy thanks to the fatty alcohol and butters contained in the product.

Related posts:
What's the difference between BTMS-50 and BTMS-25?
How to use BTMS-25 in place of BTMS-50?
BTMS-25 and products not emulsifying?

In this post, Oil free moisturizer, Honey Badger asks: I read earlier on your blog that honeyquat is added in the cool down phase but here it is added to the water phase, which is better please? I live in the UK and have something called honeyquat 50, not sure it is the same. 

I tried the BTMS-50/cetyl alcohol, it does feel dry, but made a good lotion. Is it the best emulsifier for 'oil free' moisturisers, or are there others? Mainly I am concerned with pore clogging, I tried using honeyquat as above but sadly it didn't emulsify, I'd like to make the moisturiser more hydrating if possible.

Honeyquat 50 is the same as the honeyquat I reference on the blog. And it should always be used in the cool down phase as it has a horrible smell when it is heated too much! Having said this, adding it to the wrong phase shouldn't stop your product from emulsifying. 

I use BTMS-50 for oily skin because it has a matte finish. You can use any other emulsifier - Polawax, Lotionpro 165, Ritamulse SCG, Montanov 68 - but I have found this is the best emulsifier for my oily skin. As they say, your mileage may vary. (Do a search for these emulsifiers and see the moisturizer recipes that show up!) 

As for hydrating, that's all about the water soluble ingredients. (Moisturizing is about the oils, hydrating is about water soluble ingredients like humectants, proteins, film formers, and so on.) You can make all kinds of modifications to a recipe like this one by substituting something else for the distilled water. Let's say you want to add more humectants to the recipe, you can substitute 3% glycerin for 3% of the water. You can add witch hazel at 10% and remove 10% of the water amount. You could add 5% aloe vera and 3% quaternized rice and remove 8% from the water amount. And so on. Again, if you look around the blog, I have loads of information on how to modify lotions to be more hydrating! 

Related recipes:

Related posts: 

Join me tomorrow for more comments! 

1 comment:

Honey Badger said...

Many thanks again Swift, I will look forward to experimenting with the ingredients you have suggested :) I made a basic oil free moisturiser following your recipe and will add more hydrating ingredients next time, thank you for taking the time to answer my question