Wednesday, December 10, 2014

A few thoughts for a wet and rainy Wednesday

We're being battered by rain storms here on the West Coast, so it's a good time to get indoors and into the workshop!

If you want to make a really luxurious product for your friends this holiday season, you can't go wrong with a whipped butter. They're super easy to make and look gorgeous! I recommend using shea butter if you want the product to stay creamier, but mango butter and babassu oil are great choices, too. A lovely combination would be to use 50% shea butter and 50% babassu oil. Don't use coconut oil as the base of your whipped butter as it melts really easily. If you want to use it, then consider using it as the oil part of the mix, so you would have 70% mango butter and 30% coconut oil or 50% mango butter and 50% coconut oil. Don't use it as the main amount or meltiness will ensue!

Related posts:
Why don't we use coconut oil in sugar scrubs?
Whipped babassu, sal, and hemp butter

If you want to add something to that package, consider making an emulsified sugar scrub. These are the kinds of things people pay a lot of money for, and they'll be so happy to receive them from you!

This is an easy recipe to make and follow. Yes, you need some extra ingredients, but if you're planning to expand into lotions or hair conditioners, you'll use these ingredients in those applications.

10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, BTMS-50, BTMS-25 BTMS-225)
10% cetyl, cetearyl, or behenyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
10% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
10% shea or mango butter (or quite soft butter - shea aloe would be great here)
56% oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E (optional)
2% fragrance or essential oil (optional)

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

Add 140% or 140 grams of sugar for 100 grams of sugar scrub base. If you want to use another exfoliant, check out this list - exfoliants, part one or exfoliants, part two -

Related posts:
Christmas crafting idea: Exfoliating fun with salt & sugar scrubs
Incroquat BTMS-50 in an emulsified scrub - part one
Incroquat BTMS050 in an emulsified scrub - part two
Formulating with soy bean oil - includes recipe for sugar scrub!
Formulating for dry skin
Formulating for other skin types - sugar scrubs!
Emulsified scrub with Ritamulse SCG
Black cocoa emulsified scrub
Question: How do you know what and when to substitute? (All about emulsifiers and scrubs)
Experiments in the workshop - golden shea sugar scrub
Using behenyl alcohol in sugar scrubs
Experiments in the workshop - using behenyl alcohol in the Ritamulse SCG sugar scrub
Pumpkin seed oil: Making an emulsified scrub
Oil or emulsified scrub?

Can you tell I like emulsified scrubs? :-)


Carolyn said...

Hi Susan

I made some emulsified scrubs for Christmas presents this year - first time making them - after discovering your blog and reading avidly ever since! The only issue is that I just want to use them all myself - they are so lovely to use!! Anyway, I just wanted to say thank you for all the info you share on this blog....I have so enjoyed learning from you and you have really helped me learn WHY various ingredients are used. That makes all the difference - I can now have a go at modifying recipes, which is fun. Anyway, thanks all the way from NZ, where it is meant to be summer!

Carolyn said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Paige B said...

My one frustration with emulsified scrubs is that I find they separate. I end up with an almost solid block with a layer of liquid oil floating on top. Is this just unavoidable? My recipe was pretty much the same as yours:

10% emulsifying wax
10% fatty alcohols (I've tried mixtures of two of cetyl, cetearyl, behenyl, or stearic acid)
10% cocoa butter
5% shea butter
5% mango, avocado, or jojoba butter
15% coconut oil
41% liquid oils
1% Phenonip
1% vit E
2% fragrance
125% sugar

As well, I find that if I use Shea butter, I get grainy bits unless I cool the melt quickly over ice while whipping (I tried that with a thinner version I made as a shower moisturizer, a recipe I posted elsewhere). The graininess is a non-issue of course if you are making a scrub :).

I also prefer to use a pump or squeeze bottle; even though I use the Phenonip, I worry about contamination and hate using tubs in the shower. That means I like a product that stays softer. When I made the shower moisturizer, I just halved the cocoa butter and the fatty alcohol and increased the liquid oils. I'm going to try adding some glycerin too. I will probably add some scrubbies next time and see how that is as well.

Kim said...

I've turned your emulsified scrub into a shower lotion and I'm completely in love with it! It could also make a great last minute christmas gift! It leaves my skin so extremely soft. It's basicly the emulsified scrub, without the scrub. This is what I used:
10% emulsifying wax
5% cetearyl alcohol
5% stearic acid
10% cocoa butter
10% olive butter
20% mustard seed oil
20% thistle oil
16% macadamia oil
0.5% germall plus
2% fragrance oil

It's great for this cold weather and when I don't feel like using a scrub, or my skin is to sensitive/damaged for a skin. I can use it every day when I feel like it. I use it in the shower, which means that the water get's closed in to my skin (that's how it works right?) and I dont have to put lotion on and wait until I can put on my cloths.

This is my 2nd batch now, my 3th will have to be thinner because I woud like to use it in a bottle with a pump. Maybe lower the cocoa butter to 5% and use olive oil instead of olive butter.

There's however 1 issue I have with it, there's a small part of the finished product that's liquid and it feels more greasy then the rest of the product. My first batch I just stirred together, for my 2nd I used a stick blender. Both have the same result. My emulsified scrub does not have this issue. Any idea what this might be?


Joanne L. said...

hi i make a sugar scrub (yep off your guide lines tyvm!!) and use phenonip. but with all the paraben free talk should i be using a different preservative? if so what is your recommendation? thanks for your awesome blog