Friday, July 18, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in lip balms

As we saw yesterday, sunflower oil is a great addition in a balm. So what about lip balms? Yep, it's a great addition there, too! As a light feeling, tasteless, and odourless oil, it's a great addition that offers a bit of shine.

8% candellia wax
9% beeswax
18% shea butter
12% mango butter
52% liquid oils
1% Vitamin E (optional)

Melt everything except the Vitamin E in a double boiler until melted. Remove from the heat, then add the Vitamin E. Mix well. Remove a tablespoon at a time to make 2 lip balm tubes.

Can you use all beeswax in this recipe? Yes, you can! We generally use candellia wax at half the amount of beeswax, so if you want to change the recipe to include all beeswax, we'd use about 25%  (8 x 2 = 16 + 9% beeswax = 25%). Remove 8% liquid oils from the recipe for a total of 44% liquid oils.

What if you want to use all mango butter or all shea butter? You can do that if you wish. If you use all shea butter, the product will be less stiff and you might need to increase the beeswax to 30%. If you use all mango butter, the product will be stiffer and a bit drier feeling. See the anhydrous primer recipe below for more information on using mango butter.

What if you want to use coconut oil? You can, but don't use it as a substitute for the butters. Substitute up to 20% of the liquid oils with coconut oil. Why can't you use all coconut oil? Because it has a melting point of 76˚F or about 24˚C, which isn't very high if you're leaving it in your car or your pocket on a hot day or in your bathroom after a warm shower!

Note: You can get coconut oil with higher melting points. If you do this, you can substitute it for some of the butters instead. Take a look at this example from Penny Lane Organics. Ask your local supplier if she has it in stock! 

A lip balm container will hold about 7.5 ml or 1.5 tsp - check with your supplier for the actual amount it will hold - so if you mix up 1 tbsp of lip balm, you should get 2 tubes - one for you, one for your giftee! (Do a little more than 15 ml or 1 tbsp because some will stay in the container when you pour it out. But you get the idea...)

Would you like to add a colour? I find between 5 small scoops (0.15 cc or 1/32 tsp) and 8 small  scoops of mica will create a really lovely colour that will leave a light shine on the lips. If you have a colour you really like for a blush, for instance, you can use that colour blend to make your lip shimmer. Make up the colour, then add between 5 and 8 small scoops to 1 tbsp of lip balm! (See below for more recipes with colour!)

I've created another recipe that I use as the base for my anhydrous eye shadow primer with titanium dioxide that is a bit stiffer and uses all beeswax as the base. (Check out the visual tutorial I created at SnapGuide.)

20% beeswax
25% mango butter
40% oils of choice

15% oil soluble titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
0.5% Vitamin E (optional)

If you want to make this into a lip balm, just leave out the titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. To be honest, I don't think sunflower oil would be a good addition for a primer as you don't want something really greasy. But converting this recipe into a lip balm with up to 40% sunflower oil works really well. It's also a great base for a fragrance stick!

Lip balm posts:
Lip balms & lipsticks
Lipsticks: Modifying lip balms with iron oxides
Lipsticks: Modifying lip balms with titanium dioxide
Lipsticks: Modifying lip balms with boron nitride
Lipsticks: Modifying lip balms with Ronaspheres
Iron Chemist results: Sodium lactate
Visual tutorial on SnapGuide for making coloured lip balms
Duplicating products: Burt's Bees Lip Shimmers
Christmas presents: Lip shimmers & body glitter

One ingredient, ten products: Sunflower oil in balms

Join me Monday as we meet the final product in this series - solid perfume. 


Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

8% candellia wax
9% beeswax (I was going to use carnauba, but I ran out!)
18% shea butter
12% mango butter
52% liquid oils (28% castor oil, 10% fractionated coconut oil, 7% squalene, and 7% jojoba)
1% Vitamin E

This recipe was so easy - a definite keeper. This was my first time attempting to make a lipstick and am so happy with the result. My only challenge was not having a supply of pipettes on hand and not enough colour pigment. Long story. I got a lot of product and will have to remelt when I get some pippettes to fill up my lipstick tubes. The end product melted very hard, better than some of the commercial lipsticks - outstanding result.

I didn't have all the oils in Susan's recipe on hand, and used the following, still with good results: fractionated coconut, sesame, avocado and apricot, all at 13%)

Next time, I'd like to include castor oil in the liquid oil mix, as it's a heavier oil and probably stays on longer.

Barbara Strickland said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Barbara Strickland said...

Hi, Susan;
I notice a problem with my tinted lip balm--the color tends to feather and fade rather quickly. Another blog recommends adding magnesium stearate to improve color adhesion and slip. I tried this and felt the color stayed on better (also, the balm felt lovely), but the balm itself became very soft. The blog's author told me that her balms also tended to become very soft after adding MS. My current formula is as follows:
20% Beeswax
15% Cocoa Butter
10% Shea
15% Coconut oil
40% liquid oils

The consistency was nice and firm and had a pleasant skinfeel, but the color didn't go on very well. I remelted and added 1 gram MS (about 2.6%, if my calculations are right, which they may not be). Boom--about the firmness of coconut oil, with some slight pooling of liquid oil at the top of the product.

I'm in Texas, and I already have problems keeping my products from melting--I don't need more! :) Do you know of another additive that would improve color adhesion without softening the product?

Second question: I notice that the formula in this post is somewhat different from the formula you reference in your March 2009 post on lip balm. Did you alter it to help with color adhesion or gloss?

Thanks again,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Barbara. I have dozens of lip balm recipes I use as I like to experiment! I don't always add colour, so it's hard to say whether hte other recipe is good for colour or not.

Have you taken a look at the mineral make-up section of the blog? I have some information there on using colour in lip balms, as well as loads of information on our fillers.