Monday, June 23, 2014

One ingredient, ten products: Incroquat BTMS-50 in facial moisturizers (part one)

Incroquat BTMS-50 is a great emulsifier for our emulsified products like moisturizers, lotions, creams, and body butters. It will emulsify quite a lot of oils, which means we can use less than we would with other emulsifiers, like Polawax. There is no rule of thumb with Incroquat BTMS-50, so we have to figure it out as we go along. I like to start with 4% to 5% for moisturizers and lotions and 6% to 8% for something I want to be thicker, like a body butter or a foot lotion. The more I use, the thicker the product will be, so I have to take that into consideration too.

As a note, I don't recommend using Incroquat BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225 in oil-in-water lotions as you could experience separation. I know there are people out there who successfully make lotions with BTMS-25 or BTMS-225 all the time, it's not as fool proof as BTMS-50 and I hate suggesting you make something that I can't guarantee will work for you. If you want to try using it, I suggest increasing the emulsifier by up to 50% of the amount I use it in the product. (This will make it thicker and waxier than my recipe thanks to the added cetearyl alcohol.)

What kind of lotion should we make? You can make any type you want with this emulsifier, but I'm thinking we could make a nice matte feeling facial moisturizer with some fancy oils and ingredients. As usual, feel free to make alterations to this recipe based on what you have in your workshop.

I find I like my facial moisturizers to have a matte feeling and look 'cause we generally don't want a really shiny face. When used in a lotion, Incroquat BTMS-50 offers a dry, powdery, silky feeling. If you want to keep this dry feeling, choose less greasy feeling oils like macadamia nut oil or hazelnut oil, or choose some of the exotic oils, most of which are less greasy feeling than something like rice bran or sunflower oil. (Check out the emollients section of the blog for more information and comparison charts.) For a facial lotion, I like to use something like evening primrose oil or pomegranate oil because they offer all kinds of wonderful qualities, like anti-inflammatory properties thanks to the phytosterols and anti-oxidants thanks to the polyphenols. You can choose the oils you prefer for this recipe.

Because the oil phase is so small in this moisturizer - 10% - I have to rely upon a lot of water soluble ingredients to give me the oomph I want in a moisturizer. What kinds of things could I use? Ask yourself what you want it to do!

I tend to have skin that like to go red thanks to my rosacea, so I'm going to choose things that reduce redness or inflammation. I have acne prone skin, so I tend to choose ingredients that will help with breakouts.

You can add all kinds of cosmeceuticals and other lovely extracts to this recipe. Just remove the amount you add from the water phase. So if you add 2% DMAE, remove 2% from the distilled water in the phase. If you add 2% niacinamide, 5% Multifruit BSC, and 5% lady's mantle extract, then remove 12% from the distilled water amount.

Let's talk about the math for a minute. In the above example, 2% + 5% + 5% = 12% total. We want our product recipes to total 100%. Anything we add to a product takes the total over 100%, so we need to subtract somewhere, so we remove that added percentage from the water amount because removing water doesn't have a profound effect on the product. It might be a bit thicker because you've removed water, but the recipe will total 100%. The product below doesn't total 100% because of the difference in the humectant amount and the preservative. 

77.5% water (you can replace 10% to all of the water with hydrosols or aloe vera)
up to 5% humectant of choice
2% hydrolyzed protein

8% oils
4% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol

0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol

Follow the general lotion making instructions for this product.

Want to make more moisturizers or tweak this one? Check out these posts! 
Moisturizers using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier...
Join me tomorrow as we tweak this recipe a little bit more with all kinds of interesting ingredients! 

1 comment:

Diva Soap said...

Hi Susan,
I used this recipe for my first facial moisturizer.
I modified the recipe, partly because I don't have all the ingredients listed and partly because I wanted it to be no-oily.
So here is my version:

Oil phase:
3% Macadamia oil
5% Alkyl Benzoate 12-15
2% Cetyl Alcohol
4% BTMS 50

Water phase:
81.5 aloe vera
2% SL
2% Sorbitol
0.5% Allantoin

Cool-down down:
1% Geogard 221
2% Panthenol
1% Elemi essential oil

What I wanted to achieve is a light daily moisturizer,to be working as a foundation primer without being heavy and feeling greasy. I hate when my face is sweating not only from the sun, but especially from the cream.
So, this moisturizer wasn't that bad, but with 35 C degrees (95F), or higher, it's very difficult to have your make up where it should be and not to smear it. I always choose to have moisturizer on if I have make up, but this one felt a bit oilier than I liked.

Then I modified the recipe again and added Coco-Caprilate at 1% and I changed the emulsifier. For the first time, I tried Phytocream 2000(Potassium Palmitoyl, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein,Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol)and used it at 5%.
The moisturizer was thiner, lighterand felt better.
I think I'll keep on tweaking it again, because Phytocream usage rate is suggested at 2.5-10%, which is a great range, butthe lacck of information will push me toward new experiments!