Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Making a cooling spray - part 2

Yesterday we took a look at reinventing the cooling spray with some new ingredients. Today, we'll continue that adventure by looking at some of the other hydrosols or liquids we might include.

Witch hazel is always something I consider when I'm looking for cooling. We use it a lot for its astringency, but it has so much more to offer! It offers a cooling feeling as well as anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory properties. Ensure what you are getting is witch hazel without added alcohol as that can dry out your skin and witch hazel is astringent enough without additional help! I've been using this ingredient at 30% in my previous cooling sprays and I like it at that level, so I'll continue to use it here.

So where are we with this recipe? Right now I have 10% ginger mint extract, 20% peppermint hydrosol, and 30% witch hazel. What else do I want in this product?

I want humectants! Those lovely ingredients that draw water from the atmosphere to our skin! I generally choose glycerin first because it's inexpensive and really effective, but in this application, it could feel quite sticky, so I need to consider something else. I love sodium lactate, and I think I'll use it here, but I have to be careful as it can be sun sensitizing at 3% or higher, so I don't want to use it at more than 2% to be on the safe side. I like panthenol as a humectant as well, so I'm going to use that at 2% in the cool down phase.

The Formulator Sample Shop sent me a new ingredient called Moisture Plex Advanced that sounded interesting. Its INCI is Glycerin & Water & Sodium PCA & Urea & Trehalose & Polyquaternium-51 & Sodium Hyaluronate, which means it contains a ton of humectants - glycerin, sodium PCA, urea, trehalose, and sodium hyaluronate - as well as a conditioning agent - the polyquaternium 51 - so I thought it sounded like a good fit for this product. It's a water soluble ingredient to be used at 1% to 10%, so it sounded like a good fit. I tried it neat, and it was a little on the sticky side, which is something I'm trying to avoid in this product, so I thought I'd use it at 5% in this product.

Do we have all our ingredients? Let's see...we have some cooling ingredients and some humectants. I generally put things like skin conditioners like polyquat 7 or honeyquat in my products, but those can be sticky, and I'm trying to avoid that. And I generally put some proteins in, but again, those make things feel sticky. I think I'm happy with my ingredients!

All right! Join me tomorrow as we take a look at putting these ingredients together to make a cooling spray!

*Disclaimer: The Formulator Sample Shop sent me a whole bunch of really interesting ingredients for free, and I've been playing with them in the workshop. I have made it really clear to them - and they accept - that I will share my honest opinion of these ingredients with you, my awesome readers. I will not say something is great if it isn't, and I'm not getting any payment except for these free ingredients. I just want to let you know this. I will tell you when I get something for free - everything else is purchased with my wages. 

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