Tuesday, April 22, 2014

How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Emulsifying wax NF

As I mentioned the other day, Polawax has an INCI of emulsifying wax NF, but that doesn't mean that something with an INCI of emulsifying wax NF is Polawax. There are many different versions of e-wax, so check what you are getting before buying! Check the INCI name to see what's in it. And make sure it is a complete emulsifier before buying, that is to say something that doesn't require the addition of something else before it will work. (Click here for a related post on all in one emulsifiers and a post on check what you're getting!)

Comes in pellet or flake form and must be heated and held to use. Much like Polawax, add the flakes to the heated oil phase and heat and hold that separately from the heated water phase. When both phases have reached 70˚C and have held for 20 minutes, remove from the double boiler and pour the oil or water phase into the other container. You can mix it with a hand mixer or stick blender.

For instance, at Lotioncrafter, emulsifying wax NF is listed as cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60, at Voyageur Soap & Candle as emulsifying wax NF without any specifics, and From Nature with Love as emulsifying wax (vegetable based) as Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 (and) PEG-150 Stearate (and) Steareth-20. Every supplier can be different, so keep notes as to what you've bought from whom and how it works in your product.

To substitute e-wax NF for Polawax, the general rule is to add 1% more to the emulsifier. So if Polawax has a usage rate of 25% of the oil phase, your rule for e-wax NF would be 25% of the oil phase, plus an extra 1%. If you have an oil phase of 20%, you'll be using 6% e-wax NF in the heated oil phase of your product. (20% x 0.25 = 5% + 1% = 6%). So how can we alter the recipe found in yesterday's post using Polawax to include e-wax NF? 

HEATED WATER PHASE (68.5% of the lotion)
67.5% water

HEATED OIL PHASE (29% of the lotion)
16% oil
5% butter
3% thickener
7% emulsifying wax 

COOL DOWN PHASE (1.5% of the lotion)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)

We have an oil phase of 24%, so we are using 7% e-wax NF. (24% x 0.25 = 6% +1% = 7%). And when we add something to the recipe, we remove that amount from the water phase to keep the recipe adding up to 100%, so I removed 1% from the water phase.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at how to alter this recipe using Ritamulse SCG.


Anonymous said...

I find this series on swapping out emulsifiers in a recipe really helpful. Thank you Swift.


C said...

Do one put the water phase in the oil phase or is it reverse?

Is it ok to whisk it with a little handheld wisk (if I try to make 100 g) or do I need a stickblender?