Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Making a coconut oil liquid conditioner

This dry winter weather is wreaking havoc on my hair, making the ends all hard and brittle, so I thought I'd make myself a little conditioner with coconut oil. But the winter hair custard I made a few weeks ago is quite high in coconut oil - 10% - and it's causing my hair to be greasy by the end of the day. Can I make something that offers as much moisturizing without as much oiliness?

7% BTMS-50
5% coconut oil
2% cetrimonium chloride

73.5% water
2% hydrolyzed protein - I used keratin hydrolysate

2% panthenol
2% cationic polymer - I used quaternized rice
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Use the basic conditioner making instructions for this product.

Why am I using the ingredients I've chosen in this recipe? Check out this post on the basic recipes for conditioner to learn more about using Incroquat BTMS-50 or other cationic quaternary compounds. Yes, you can substitute other quats, like Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25, but remember to increase the amount you're using to ensure you get a good emulsification.

In this recipe, I chose to use keratin hydrolysate, a hydrolyzed protein I received from the Formulator Sample Shop*. I like to use hydrolyzed proteins that form a film on my hair or skin instead of penetrating it, so I generally choose things like oat protein or keratin. If you want something to penetrate your hair strand and moisturize from the inside out, you will want to choose a hydrolyzed protein that can penetrate the hair strand, like hydrolyzed silk protein. It is suggested to use the keratin hydrolysate at 1% to 5% in the heated water phase of the product, so I chose to use 2%, because this is what I generally use.

I had originally wanted to use honeyquat as my cationic polymer, but I was out, so I chose to use quaternized rice, a sample of which I received from the Formulator Sample Shop*. This product is like the other cationic polymers we use, which is to say they are positively charged and will adsorb to our hair strand to create a nice film that will repel other hair, keep our hair less tangled, and will smooth the cuticle down. Quaternized rice is suggested at 1% to 10% in the cool down phase.

If you don't like silicones, then take a look at the silicone alternatives you could use instead.

A note on humectants: I don't tend to use a lot of humectants as I have frizzy hair that gets quite huge and hard to tame when I add things like glycerin or honey and such into my conditioners. If you want more hydration in your product, think about adding 2% to 5% in the heated water phase and removing 2% to 5% from the water amount.

So what do I think of it? I like it! I find it is moisturizing enough for my hair so the ends don't get too crinkly and hard, and my hair can make it two days without washing. I wouldn't recommend oily haired girls get this on your scalp as it won't make your greasy hair very happy, and I recommend that dry haired girls really consider using the humectants as noted above. But it's a great conditioner that smells absolutely like white chocolate (my favourite fragrance oil).

*Please note that I have been given quite a few free samples from the Formulator Sample Shop. I have made it clear to them that I will share my honest opinion with you, my wonderful readers. 

Related posts:
Some oils can penetrate your hair! 


Sara said...

Hi! Is Cetrimonium Chloride similar to Behentrimonium Chloride? Can you use them interchangeably in a conditioner? A lot of conditioners I have tried that I liked had one or the other. Thank you!

Chris said...

Sara: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.no/2009/07/cationic-quaternary-compounds_29.html

Anonymous said...

Can we have a conditioner without any humectant at all?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

The only requirement for a conditioner is to have that positively charged quaternary compound and water. So leave out the humectants you don't want and replace the amount with water to get to 100%.

lattice said...

Do you think her conditioner will work well?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I can't get the audio to work, so I'm afraid I don't know. What is her recipe?

Brandi Yates said...

Did you like the Keratin Susan? I noticed you dont seem to use it much in your hair recipes.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Brandi. I do like the keratin and will use it in future recipes.

Here's the thing...I only make my products two to three times a year. I made huge batches to last a long time. So the last time I made conditioner was back in February! (No, that's not entirely true. I made some in April, but it was a small tester batch and I didn't use the keratin then.) I will use it again for sure in the next batch. I'm finding I'm less frizzy. I'm not sure why, but I think the keratin has something to do with it as it's a film former and not a penetrator.

Oops, look at the time! I better get into the shower!

cjguitar said...

I've made a few of your recipes (maybe slightly modified), conditioners and lotions, and they always come out really thick, even when I lower the BTMS-50 and jack up the cetrimonium chloride. Other than that, they always come out great. Any tips to make something a little thinner?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi cjguitar. You could add more water. (Not trying to sound sarcastic, but that really is the answer.) Up the water in the recipes or remove some of the stuff, and you've tried that last part, so adding water is the only option. Or put the product into a jar and don't worry about it! (That's what I do!)

izoui said...

Hi Susan
Since I am already in love with the Intense conditioner with coconut oil, I decided to try this one has my more regular rinse-off conditioner. Here is what I did :

Heated water phase
57.5% water
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% oat protein

Heated oil phase
6% FCO
7% Btms-50
3% Incroquat CR
3% cetearyl alcohol

Cool down phase
2% honeyquat
2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% FO
0.5% liquid germall plus

The fractionated coconut oil leaves my hair really soft without weighting it down. I have dry hair, mid back that get very frizzy and I got very good result with this conditioner during the summer.
Thank you

Supriya said...

Hi Susan
I just came through ur blog 4 months back and I must thank you from bottom of my heart as still not able to read all of ur post but learned a lot since I reside in india and housewife with 2 kids with ezima on skin use to make body creams since last 10 years but was just using shea butter , cocoa butter , some oil ,e wax and water more or less 60 percent water n 38 percent of oils n butter plus preservative but my cream had never had that glide now I know why I now used Cetyl alcohol n BTMS 50 plus e wax ( I have both an ionic and non ionic e wax) as I can not get in india BTMS has to order from usa and it cost fortune but now my cream has that glide also I am able to make hair conditioner for my daughter n me also u were right this has become my hobby n got almost alll silicones , cetrimonium chloride , Cetyl alcohol, polyquat 10 , stearic acid, n still I read every day ur blog n I m like now I need to order this n my hubby is like it is really expensive hobby��������
Thank you once again
Supriya patel

Mary&Jane said...

Hi, is there a way to make the conditioner sulfate free and aluminum free

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sure, Mary! I encourage you to research each ingredient to see if it works for you. If it doesn’t, you can find all kinds of write ups for ingredients you can use instead by checking out the hair section or the ingredients lists.