Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Why the heck did I buy this and what can I do with it? Lotionpro 165

I bought Lotionpro 165 (INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) from Lotioncrafter a while ago, but I'm finally getting around to playing with it, and it seemed like a great inclusion in the Why the heck did I buy this? series of posts!

Lotionpro 165 is an all-in-one non-ionic emulsifier based on the HLB system used in our heated oil phase to emulsify water and oil together to creation lotions and other emulsified products. It has an HLB value of about 11.2. (You don't need to know this in order to use it, but it's helpful information.)

It's known as an emulsifier that can emulsify large amounts of oil even when using small amounts. The usage is 1% to 5%, with 2.5% to 5% suggested for 20% to 30%. It offers great stability with AHAs and BHAs (acids), so it would be a good choice for moisturizers. It comes in small white flakes, and we add it to the heated oil phase of your product. Its melting point is at 54˚C to 60 ˚C (129˚F to 140˚F), so make sure you heat and hold your oil phase at over that amount to ensure that it is completely melted when you combine the heated oil and heated water phase.

In my experience, this emulsifier tends to make lighter and fluffier lotions than those made with Polawax, even when used at the same amount. (Your experience may vary!) I have found it feels less waxy than products I've made with Polawax or Ritamulse SCG. It's not a greasy feeling emulsifier, but it definitely doesn't feel as dry and powdery as Incroquat BTMS-50.

There isn't a rule about how much Lotionpro 165 to add to your products. I suggest starting at around 4% and going up to 5% if you feel you aren't getting the stability you want or reducing it to 3% if you feel you are using too much. You will have to play around to find the perfect balance for your products.

Jen at Lotioncrafter has created a lovely body butter using this ingredient. I can't recommend this recipe enough! 

Lotionpro 165 goes under a series of different names, but I suggest knowing the INCI when going to look for it at your supplier.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at a lotion recipe with this new emulsifier!


Anonymous said...

I love lotionpro - it's my favourite emulsifer - as you said, it's light but it is thin so I'd add an extra 2% cetyl alcohol to compensate for that. I only need 3.5% to emulsify 35% oils.

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

I have started to use it recently and I loved the following combo:

lotionpro 2.5%
methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.1%
na carbomer 0.2%

the oil phase had a required HLB of 9.67 and has 2% shea, 2% cetyl alcohol, 1% dimethicone & dimethicone crosspolymer and other (total oil phase of 13.65%)

I used a lot of lotionpro because I wanted to use tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in the HLB system and I could not find anywhere its HLB value ... so I assumed a higher value: 10

the result is a thick cream, but it sinks in so fast and leaves no greasy residue, I just love it!

I would also use it in a creamy cleanser, but I would need to use a lot of thickeners (I used to use Olivem 1000, which gives a greater body)

MIchelle D. said...

I had some whitening when using Lotionpro (at 4%) and it was suggested that it was reacting with my fatty alcohols (2% behenyl, 1% cetyl). Have you noticed this? -Michelle

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michelle. It's called the soaping effect. I didn't notice this, but if I did, it wouldn't bother me too much! It can be a result of the fatty acids in your butters as well. You can add dimethicone to the mix at up to 2% in the cool down phase to help a bit!

Anonymous said...

I made a hair conditioner with it and it was not slipery at all, what can i add to make it slippery as a hair conditioner?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rosi! Can you share your recipe in percentages? And check out the section in the hair care section on adding slip and glide to your conditioners!