Friday, January 10, 2014

Ingredient: Using Captex SBE/ButterEZ as a thickener with oils

One of the ways you can use Captex SBE or ButterEZ (INCI Caprylic/capric/stearic triglycerides) in our products is as a thickener. It can be used in place of a butter in your products or you can combine it with a butter or oil to thicken it or reduce grains. I think the most amazing thing it can do is create a butter from our oils. We've seen this happen with Lipidthix, but there's some potential for grains with that product. (Click here for that post...)

I've found that using about 25% is ideal for making something that feels like a proper butter. I've heated and held it, then cooled it to create a butter that is whippable into this wonderful whipped butter! It feels really nice on your skin, and it will melt on contact with your skin the way something like shea butter or mango butter will melt. You can use this butter anywhere you would use any other butter - in a whipped butter, a lotion bar, a lotion, hair conditioner, and so on.

I'm adding 0.5% Vitamin E to this recipe so any short lived oils will have some protection against quick rancidity. It is optional.

74.5% oil of choice
25% Butter EZ/Captex SBE
0.5% Vitamin E

Heat the oil and ButterEZ/Captex SBE together in a heat proof container. Hold at 70˚C to allow all the fatty acids to completely melt. Remove from the heat, add Vitamin E, and allow to cool.

If you want to turn this into a whipped butter, I suggest putting it in the fridge or freezer to cool quickly, then remove and whip until it's lovely and fluffy. (I get the cute swirl on the top of my whipped butters by using a 1M cake decorating tip with a piping bag.)

Try using this butter you create in your lotion bars as the main butter. It's interesting to see what something like a rice bran oil butter brings to a lotion bar compared to using cocoa, mango, or shea butter.


Michele said...

I'm torn......... So many little time! Would So what is the skin feel of this butter thickened with butterEz compared to say cera bellina used at the same level?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michele! I would compare the skin feel to the difference between using a butter and using beeswax. I would say the ButterEZ makes something that feels like a butter and the cera bellina making something that feels like beeswax. So the ButterEZ makes my rice bran oil feel like mango butter - a little dry and crumbly feeling, not smooth on the outside. The cera bellina makes it feel more like a gel, slicker and smoother. I have found a little cera bellina goes a longer way than a little ButterEZ.

michele said...

Thanks for that Susan, I'm off now for a little 'alchemy'! Your blog is such a fantastic resource and you are fountain of knowledge, you give so much of yourself and your free time and I want you to know I truly appreciate it! Respect to you.

Loved said...

Hello Susan,

Thanks for great site. My question is, can ButterEZ make a butter the same way lipidthix would usinng vegetable oils?

Say forexample making pumpkin seed butter. If i used ButterEZ and pumpkin seed oil would i get the same results as using lipidthix? Thanks.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Loved! I found it was very similar, but without grains. Check out the post I wrote on Lipidthix. Hit "newer post" to read the whole series.

Loved said...

Wow Great! Thanks. Could it (ButterEZ) be the product that is used to make Aloe Butter? The INCI for Aloe butter is
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract.

Thanks Susan.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sure, this or Lipidthix. I'd go with Lipidthix.

Nina said...

When Making whipped body butter I use 75% butter and 25% oils so if I use butterez how do you keep it in the recpie?