Monday, November 18, 2013

Six ingredient lotion: Meadowfoam seed oil and cocoa butter

As I'm researching the ingredients you suggested in last week's Why the heck did I buy this and what can I do with it Wednesday, let's take a look a six ingredient lotion we could make with meadowfoam seed oil. (Wow, that's a whole lotta links in one sentence, eh?)

Meadowfoam seed oil is a light, slightly greasy feeling oil that has a long shelf life and can boost the shelf life of other oils. I thought it would be nice to combine it in a lotion with Ritamulse SCG as the emulsifier because that offers a slightly thickened and dry feeling, with a little cetyl alcohol to offer thickening, slip, and glide.

In the water phase, I used distilled water with 3% glycerin as my humectant and 0.5% allantoin to work as my barrier ingredient. (I would normally use a combination of cocoa butter, allantoin, and dimethicone as my three approved barrier ingredients, but I only had six ingredients to work with, and dimethicone was one too many!)

If you're the type who thinks about things being natural, I would say you could call this lotion 95.5% natural as Ritamulse SCG is Ecocert. The 4.5% I don't consider natural would be my fragrance oil, preservative, and cetyl alcohol.

63% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

5% cocoa butter
16% meadowfoam seed oil
3% cetyl alcohol
8% Ritamulse SCG

0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
1% fragrance oil

Weigh the heated water phase in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Weigh the heated oil phase in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Heat both phases until both reach 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and mix. When the lotion reaches about 45˚C, add the liquid Germall Plus, and fragrance and mix well. Bottle, and rejoice.

A double batch of this made 6 ounces or 180 ml of lotion for me.

What do I think of it? As a body lotion, it's a bit thin for my tastes. I found it to be quite watery as I put it on, and it didn't stay greasy long enough for me to rub it in as well as I would have liked. After two hours, it didn't feel like I had really applied any lotion to my skin, and the next morning, it definitely wasn't there.

As a hand lotion, it was awesome. It was light feeling and moisturized without leaving a greasy sheen behind. (The features that made it a less than stellar body lotion made it a really great hand lotion, which really goes to show you it really is about the goals and purpose of a product!)The allantoin and cocoa butter are in there to help create the barrier to keep the world out, so using this as something like a crafting hand lotion would work well!

If I wanted to thicken it as a body lotion, I'd go to 10% cocoa butter or another butter to make it thicker or I'd use a thicker feeling oil like rice bran or olive oil with the meadowfoam seed oil. I wouldn't change anything as a hand lotion!

Remember that using different ingredients than I've used here will change the skin feel. If you use e-wax or Polawax, this will be a greasier feeling lotion, so consider using mango butter in place of some of the cocoa butter so it'll stay less greasy feeling. BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225 will make it feel slightly drier than my version. Feel free to use cetearyl alcohol in place of the cetyl alcohol for a waxier feeling lotion, and feel free to replace the meadowfoam seed oil for any other oil or ester you like. Feel free to try other liquids in place of the water, such as aloe vera or a flowery hydrosol. 

Have fun formulating! 


Kirsty said...

Hi Susan

Have you heard of/worked with Beautyderm HP (Glyceryl stearate; cetearyl alcohol; stearic acid; sodium lauroyl glutamate)? It's an all-in-one, ecocert approved emulsifier. It allows for the heating of the principal oil and water in a single container. I'd be interested on your take on this?

Anonymous said...

i have been trying to make this new recipe as i have everything listed, heat and held both phases at 70 deg for 20mins then added water phase to oil phase very slowly. The end result is a watery consistency! It is slightly viscous but nowhere near how 8% ritamulse is supposed to feel/look. In fact i have also had the same problem with other recipes using 8% ritamulse (all under20% total oils). It sometimes give me a lovely result (thick and lush) but most other times i end up with a very liquidy emulsion. The liquidy emulsion feels 'ricey', and u can see bits of little particles upon close look. I do everything as you teach! Some method but 2 diff results but i cant figure it out!
xx eeting

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kirsty. I haven't used this emulsifier. Have you tried it? Where could I find it to order it? (I'm in Canada...) Any information you can provide would be great!

Hi Eeting. I fear your emulsion is broken. Can you give me some more information on your process? How long are you mixing? When are you adding the preservative? What are you changing from my recipe? Are you adding or removing anything? This isn't a very thick product, but it's not thin either. I'd say it was medium viscosity.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan, i did not remove or add anything from your recipe. And it doesn't look like what u showed in your epic lotion fail pic using ritamulse (the one that looks like cheese!). I add liquid germall plus when it is at room temp.
As for mixing, i add the water phase to oil phase slowly (abt total of 10 mins for 400g batch) while both phases still remaining at 70deg. Then i mix it as crazy high as possible without splattering (im using a magnetic stirrer and on a magnetic heating plate) at 70deg for 5mins, then turn the heat off and let it continue mixing until the emulsion cools to room temp. In my desperateness i have also tried to cool it down after the 5min mxing at 70deg by emerging it into a cool water bath at 23deg. sometimes both method will give me a successful result. But most of the time i get that liquidy ricey mess with bits inside!:(
i have used the same technique on my heating block/magnetic stirrer for other e-waxes like polawax and 2 other different e-waxes and never have such problems. I like ritamulse but im not sure why it hates me!!
thank u for your time Susan

Angie said...

So much great information! It's a little intimidating. I'm the newest of the newbies in the homemade cosmetic field....How should I start with your blog? Any intro or 'dummy' posts?

Danica said...

@Angie- There are tons of intro posts.
Just google or put something in the search box and your posts should pop up.
I would start here and go from there:

This blog is awesome and tons of information for newbies! Enjoy your reading!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Angie! Check out the newbie section of the blog for some of the most basic recipes with loads of information on where to start and what to buy!

Hi Eeting. Did you write that you took 10 minutes to add the water to the oil phase? Are you continuing to heat and hold it while mixing? You don't need to use a cold bath - it will cool on its own. Can you please clarify?

As an aside, there are many types of lotion fails - not just ones like the Ritamulse fail I posted - and having what seems like little granules or rice is a type of lotion fail as well.

Anonymous said...

Hi again Susan. Yes i did mean after 20mins of heating and holding, i added the water phase to the oil phase in a span of 10mins of a 400g batch (taking the instructions of adding water phase slowly quite literally) Actually i have tried adding the water phase into oil phase (after 20mins of heat&hold) of a 400g batch in a range of time from 20sec to 10mins, hoping that it would change the outcome. But it did not. The temp remained at 70deg in all my attempts during phase combination. I let it mix for about 5more mins before turning the heat off.
Sorry to sound so stupid!
thank u again for ur time :)

Angie said...

Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi eeting! Just dump all the oil into the water phase or all the water into the oil phase and mix well. You don't need to take such time doing it! I think this might be part of your problem! As well, try using a different mixer. I'm wondering if you don't need to try something like a stick blender or hand mixer?

Otherwise, I'm all out of ideas. Are you sure you're using Ritamulse and not a knock off? There's an supplier who uses some of the ingredients of Ritamulse, but not the actual product, and it tends to lead to problems with emulsification.

Danuta Kildan said...

I am newbie too and I made it lotion (according to Susan percentage) with Emulsimulse, it came out beautifully. I had not idea I should pour the water slowly, mixing it. i dumped the water into oils and started to mix, I mix a minute with stick blender, then break a few sips of coffee, watch tv for a minute and start mixing again. When the temps are lower than 45 i add all the cool phase goodies, then mix then mix, after it goes down to 30 C I add Optiphen plus (I need to finish the bottle before I switch to Germall plus) It came out beautiful no greacy so I am using it as a hand cream. With the Stearic acid it is a bit of drag for body lotion. I love the feel of dry lotion on my hands. Thank you for all your teaching again;)

Anonymous said...

i made this recipe last night with a couple of modifications and i really like it. I swapped out cocoa butter for mango,used 10% aloe in the water phase and sodium lactate for the humectant.

I have learned so very much from your blog, and i wanted to thank you again for your generosity and your teaching. You are very much appreciated!