Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Pumpkin seed oil: Making a light lotion

I've been having fun playing with my one oil lotions, so I thought I'd try making a pumpkin seed oil lotion with Polawax that I could turn into a zinc oxide lotion for my husband.

What is my goal for this lotion? I want something that will offer some occlusive properties, some protection properties, and a whole lot of soothing and barrier repair mechanism properties for a lotion to help my husband when he's been out in the cold and wind at work for the night. Because it's going on his face, I want something that doesn't feel too heavy or greasy. I also want something I can use when I come home from a day outside or in the cold for my hands and body.

What can I include in a lotion of this nature? When I'm looking at a protecting lotion, I always turn to the big three approved occlusive and barrier ingredients - cocoa butter, allantoin, or dimethicone. I don't want to include cocoa butter as he will be using this on his face and he has oily skin, so I'll leave that out. I quite honestly didn't even think of using dimethicone - not really sure why as I love the stuff! - so my barrier ingredient will be allantoin at 0.5% in the heated water phase.

I'm using chamomile hydrosol, my favourite soothing hydrosol, aloe vera, and witch hazel to offer anti-inflammatory properties. If you don't have these things, you could use distilled water in their place or something like 0.5% powdered chamomile extract in the cool down phase.

I'm using glycerin as my humectant because it not only draws water from the atmosphere to our skin, but it also restores normal hydration in the stratum corneum, increases skin elasticity, and improves impaired barrier recovery. All of these things are great for skin that might be chapped or damaged in some way.

I'm using hydrolyzed silk protein because its low molecular weight means it will penetrate the skin and behave as a humectant. I'm using polyquat 44 as my cationic polymer because it offers skin conditioning and moisturizing at a level of 0.5%, which is pretty awesome!

In my heated oil phase, I'm using 24% oils as I know that'll make a light to medium weight lotion. I'm using 19% pumpkin seed oil because I know I want 2% IPM to make it feel less greasy and 3% cetyl alcohol to make it slightly thicker, leaving me with 19% of the 24%. With Polawax, you want to use 25% of the total oil phase in emulsifier, so 24 * .25 = 6%. So there's my heated oil phase.

I want to include Vitamin E in my lotion as both an anti-oxidant and a skin softener at 1% in the cool down phase. And I have to include panthenol at 2% in the cool down phase because it improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces redness and inflammation, increases wound healing by stimulating skin epithelialization, improves skin barrier mechanism repair, mitigates itching and soothes irritation, and behaves as a humectant. How can you not want to include this?

And finally we need our preservative. I'm choosing to use liquid Germall Plus because it's my favourite. I can use it at up to 0.5% in the cool down phase. You can choose another suitable broad spectrum preservative you prefer.

28% distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin
0.5% polyquat 44
2% silk protein
0.5% allantoin

6% Polawax
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM
19% pumpkin seed oil

1% Vitamin E
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)

Please use the basic lotion making instructions for this product.

1. Weigh your water phase into a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

1a. Weigh your total water phase on a scale - jug and all - so we can compensate for the lost water before mixing. And set some water in a separate container to heat. A pot with water on the stove or boiling up the kettle works well. You don't need to boil it the whole time - bring it to boiling now and you'll have some less-than-boiling water for step 3a.

2. Weigh your oil phase into a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

3. Heat both phases to 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. This is to kill any nasties that might be in any of our ingredients, as well ensuring both phases are the same temperature when we mix them together. (This is part of the emulsification process - the heating part of emulsification.)

3a. Remember how we measured the water phase in step 1a? Measure it again - zero your scale and measure the jug and all. Add enough of the warm water to get you to the total weight from step 1a.

4. When both phases reach 70˚C, pour the water phase into the oil phase and mix very well with a stick blender or hand mixer (or Kitchenaid if you're a lucky person!). Mix periodically as the temperature drops.

5. When you reach 45˚C, add your cool down ingredients and mix very well.

6. Allow the lotion to come to room temperature before bottling. If you are using jars, just glop in what you have made. If it's a lighter lotion, you could probably pour it into the bottle with a funnel. For thicker lotions, I have found using a piping bag (disposable, from the cake or chocolate decorating store) is the easiest way to get things into bags.

So what do I think of this lotion? I really like this one. It is light feeling when I put it on and light feeling when it's on my skin, but I know it's there. I would say it's about medium greasy. It's not too greasy, but not too dry feeling either. An hour after application, I can still feel there's a sheen of oil on my skin and it looks a tad shiny, but it's not greasy.

As an aside, I was surprised at how fluffy the lotion was when I finished mixing. (I thought I took a picture, but I didn't...sigh...) I think this is because I didn't include a butter.

Join me tomorrow as we turn this into a zinc oxide lotion!


Marjo said...

I cannot wait till tomorrow!! Hoping our newborn will permit creating both versions to try your routing :)

Marjo said...

I loved this cream! Used grapeseedoil for i like the skinfeel. It is very fluffy, if i'd turn it into a salve sudocrem alike would i get that stiffness by incorporating stearic acid into the receipe? Thanks in advance!!!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Marjo! I've answered your question in today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is that you can substitute stearic acid for cetyl alcohol to make the product stiffer.

Anamaria said...

Hi Susan, I like and thank you for this lotion formula, I would like to know if I could ever make this same lotion adding magnesium chloride oil? Would it survive to the heat? Thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anamaria! The short answer to your question is yes, you could use it in a product as it can handle heat. The longer answer to your question is found in today's Weekend Wonderings. Great question! Thank you for asking!