Wednesday, October 2, 2013

What the heck can I do with this Wednesday: Grapeseed extract

In an e-mail, Roberta suggested we take a look at grapeseed extract (INCI: Vitis vinifera) as our first What the heck can I do with this ingredient.

I happen to be a huge fan of grapeseed extract. It's a dark coloured extract that offers a ton of polyphenols that might help with stabilization and maintenance of elastin and collagen in our skin and that act as anti-oxidants in our products. It contains quercetin - a great anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory. Because of the tannins, it's a great choice for normal to oily skin and hair because it will feel astringent. It can behave as an exfoliating ingredient as well. Use it at up to 0.5% in the cool down phase of your products. (I encourage you to read the entire post as I didn't want to summarize it here.)

What could you make with this ingredient? I love making facial cleansers with it, although the colour is a little off putting, I admit. You can use any facial cleanser recipe on this site, but I like to use it in the foamer bottle recipe you'll find in this post. Here's a foamer bottle recipe with low surfactants you might try, or you could put it in a surfactant based exfoliating cleanser or this creamy exfoliating facial cleanser (or this one for normal to oily skin). In fact, any of the facial cleanser recipes you might find on the blog would be great for grapeseed extract.

Toners are another great place to use grapeseed extract. In this decadent toner suitable for a best friend, normal to oily skinned people might enjoy adding 0.5% into the cool down phase. Check out the recipes below for more ideas.

Related recipes:
Making a toner for your skin type - the basic recipe
Experiments in the workshop: Min-maxed toner becomes a gel moisturizer
Tea tree: A facial wash and toner
Formulating for dry skin: A toner
Gels: Make a gel based toner
Making a toner for your skin type: Oily skin
Making a toner for your skin type: Oily skin - the recipe
Hydrovance in toners and sprays

Grapeseed extract might help with hair growth - again, see the post on this extract, but I doubt it as nothing can help with hair growth - so you could use it in hair care products. It is great for oily hair types in shampoos, but you might want to think twice about using it in a conditioner because of the colour. I like it in this shampoo bar - it's actually a good thing to have a bit of colour when I'm trying different recipes so we know what's what! - and you could use it at 0.5% in the cool down phase of any of the shampoos you might find in the hair care products section of the blog.

I can't find a picture of my shampoo bar with grapeseed extract. My iPhoto library crashed a few weeks ago, and I'm still rebuilding!

I don't think grapeseed extract is necessarily the best choice for a leave on product, like a lotion, as the colour is very strong, and it's not oil soluble, so you can't use it in anhydrous products like whipped butters or lotion bars. But at 0.5% in the cool down phase in rinse off products, you'll get a nice anti-oxidant that can offer some exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties that work well for normal to oily haired or skinned people!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan! I made your six ingredient lotion with shea butter and had a really weird thing happen with the oil phase (10% shea butter, 10% almond, 8% hazelnut oil, 8% E-wax). I have previously used this particular E-wax at 7-8% without any problems. The oil phase melts then a gooey clump forms and never could melt back into the oil phase. It is soft but jst does NOT want to liquify with the rest of the melted oil phase. The same thing happened 2 times (I made the oil phase twice!). Do you have any idea what happened? Thank you for your help! xoxo eeting

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

I have this grape extract from a french supplier - I love it, but as a colorant. It changes colour with pH, so it is awesome in a foaming wash / gel / liquid shampoo or other product. If the overall product is alcaline, the colour is blue-ish. The more acid the product, the purple it gets.

and what a beautiful purple!

now I found grape extract at the drugstore , as supplement.... would that work in the way you are using it ? its colour is really brown and unappealing ....

(Sânziene şi Mătrăgună)

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

p.s. with this extract, a VERY little goes a LONG way. I found that dropping a bit too much in my product was too much from o colouring point of view :(

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Can you list your exact recipe and complete process?

Ava M said...

Hi Susan,

I'm a novice formulator and a big fan of your blog. Yesterday I had my first abject failure and I am hoping you or some of the readers can help me understand why. I made a facial lotion with grape seed extract. I made the lotion as per your instructions, then added the grape seed extract, mixed with a small amount of water, last in the cool down phase. My lovely lotion became a separated mess! I buzzed it for another few minutes with my stick blender and it, sort of, went back to an emulsified lotion, but after a few hours it had again separated. What did I do wrong?

The recipe I used were:

Heated water phase
48.5% Water
10% Champ floral water
10% Aloe vera
3% glycerin
2% AHA
2% Sodium lactate
0.5% Allantoin

Heated Oil Phase
4% Squalane
4% Primrose evening oil
5% Sweet Almond oil
4% Polawax
2% Cetyl Alcohol

Cool down phase
1% Optiphen
2% Panthenol
0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% Grapeseed Extract