Monday, October 21, 2013

Pumpkin seed oil: Making a pumpkin seed butter with Lipidthix, then using it in a cuticle balm

Last week we took a look at pumpkin seed oil by adding it to a whipped babassu and kokum butter. Let's take a look at a few other products we can make, like a cuticle balm.

I do love my cuticle balm, and I use it all year long. My mom uses it on her hands as a moisturizer and her lips as well, and I've found it works really well as a lip balm.

Instead of using mango butter, as I normally do, I thought I'd make a butter from pumpkin seed oil using Lipidthix, INCI Hydrogenated vegetable oil, an ingredient that thickens and makes butters from any of our vegetable oils. In my past experiments, I found I liked 75% oil with 25% Lipidthix, so that's what I did here.

75% pumpkin seed oil
25% Lipidthix

Measure out each ingredient into a heatproof container, like a Pyrex jug, and put into a double boiler. Heat at 60˚C to 70˚C for up to 20 minutes, then remove from the heat and place in the freezer for about 20 minutes (depending upon how much you're making!) or until it seems like butter.

Related posts:
Lipidthix: 80% oil experiment
Lipidthix: 75% oil experiment

I used the pumpkin seed butter as the base of this balm, but you can use mango butter or shea butter instead and use the pumpkin seed oil as the hazelnut and calendula oil portions. Or don't. It's up to you! I don't suggest a harder butter, like cocoa butter or kokum butter as they will be too hard. If you want a softer product, leave out the beeswax or reduce it.

40% pumpkin seed butter
23% lanolin
12% lecithin
10% hazelnut oil
9% beeswax
5% calendula oil
1% Vitamin E

Weigh all the ingredients in a heat proof container until melted. Pour into tins or little jars. Allow to set at room temperature or in the fridge, whichever you prefer. Use and rejoice.

Join me tomorrow as we use pumpkin seed oil in an emulsified scrub!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan!
sorry to have to bother you with another question (i do want to get things right!)After heat and hold, does it matter how quickly u add the water phase to the oil phase?
It is recommended with polawax that the liquid be added in a slow steady stream. But i noticed that in your video tutorial that you simply emptied all of the water phase into the oil phase at once then mixed away. Is your method applicable to most emulsifying systems? (eg ecomulse, e-wan MF, BmTS, sugarmulse)? Does adding the water phase quickly give us a more stable emulsion? Thank u for your time.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi eeting. I've written about your question in today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is that it doesn't seem to matter!

Thabi said...

Hi Susan

Instead of using LipidThix, can you make a butter out of any oil using hydrogenated vegetable oil in its liquid form?

I really want to make butters out of unusual oils :)

Your blog is truly amazing....

A South African fan

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Thabi. I guess I'm wondering what ingredient you're referring to because hydrogenated vegetable oil is in a solid form, which is why it's hydrogenated. Can you let me know or give me a link to it?

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

I have the same question as Thabi! I have Palm Kernel Oil Hydrogenated because I ordered the wrong thing for making soap!
Do you think that I can use this solid oil instead of buying Lipidthix? It has no INC. I wonder if I can use this palm oil and green tea oil to make green tea butter; this palm hydrogenated with rice bran oil (or other liquid oil) combine with green tea extract to make green tea butter; hydrogenated with avocado oil to make avocado butter. These are just a few example that I would love to try!

Thank you for all your work.


Thabi said...

Hi Susan

I think Michelle elaborated on what I was trying to ask you :) I hope that helps. In my case I would have wanted to combine hydrogenated olive oil or hydrogenated cotton seed oil with jojoba oil or almond oil to make it into a jojoba butter or almond butter.

So essentially I'd be substituting the lipidThix with an existing (solid) hydrogenated oil. I hope I am making sense :?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michelle and Thabi! Why don't you try it and see if it works. Try it at 10 grams hydrogenated palm oil and 10 grams of oil and see if you get the result you want. Then up it a little bit. If you want it thicker, add more hydrogenated palm oil. If you want it thinner, add a little more oil. And keep going until you get the product you want!

Let me know how it turns out so we can share this with others!

A BF said...

Hi Susan!

I have hydrogenated Castor oil (Castor Wax) and I was reading the comment above about the different hydrogenated oils. I was thinking about trying your experiments with hydrogenated Castor oil, but I’ve seen Castor Jelly (hydrogenated Castor oil and Castor oil) and it’s marketed as a “substitute for petroleum jelly.” Do you think it’s because of the ratios, or does Castor Wax typically produce more jelly like results? I’m still going to try out your experiment recommendations previously posted and I’ll post my results!