Thursday, September 12, 2013

Emulsifiers: Natragem EW (Croda) - (somewhat) final thoughts (part 1)

Recap: On (last) Tuesday I made a lotion using Natragem EW as my emulsifier instead of Ritamulse SCG or Polawax. It's an Ecocert emulsifier with an INCI of INCI is Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol. The suggested usage rate is 3.0% to 7.5%, and the manufacturer notes that we can use it exactly as we would use Polawax in the heated oil (or heated water) phase. The manufacturer notes this emulsifier can take a few days to thicken, so the next day I checked the viscosity in this post. It had thickened a little more than the previous day. Today, we're checking in on day three of the lotion before bottling.

My modified lotion with Natragem EW on day three, last Thursday. I wasn't expecting a huge difference in thickening, but this is what I found. I have decent peaks!

If I were describing this recipe as food, I'd say on day one before it completely cooled, it was runny like cooked pudding when it was still warm. When it cooled by day two, it was more like a thicker pudding that you might think needs a bit more cooling. Today, it's more like a thick pudding you can pour, but probably wouldn't. It's still not as thick as my Ritamulse SCG version, but I attribute that more to using less Natragem EW than anything else. It's smooth looking and feels really great on my skin. For a 70% water lotion recipe, it's about what I'd expect with this much emulsifier and thickener.

I would use this again and again. I think it's a nice emulsifier.

Bo noted that she pours her lotions warmish and they get a nice look in the bottle. I didn't pour mine warm. In fact, I waited until Wednesday this week - eight days later - to pour it. I admit, I'm weird that way. Plus, I needed to get some bottles. I can't believe I was out of 2 and 4 ounce pumps and tottles!

More to come about this emulsifier as I get reports from my testers!

1 comment:

melian1 said...

ok, i've been thinking about this for days. why would the effect of the emulsifier (thicker one way, thinner the other) be dependent on which phase it was melted into? how/why could it be different?

if you put everything into one big pot and melted the whole shebang together, would the emulsifier act half like oil phase melted and half like water phase melted?

doesn't it have the same number of hydrophyllic and lipophyllic heads no matter where it is melted?

and what if you melted it by itself and then added the rest of the ingredients, both water and oil? would that act the same as melting it all together or would it act like some whole other way?

this emulsifier is just not making sense to me.