Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Emulsifiers: Natragem EW (Croda) - the recipe

I thought I'd use a recipe I've made many times with Polawax and Ritamulse SCG, so I chose this body lotion my mom loves that I made back in June. I still have some of this and a version with Polawax in my storage bin, so I can do a direct comparison.

Tuesday - Made the lotion
33% distilled water
10% aloe vera
20% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
3% glycerin
5% water soluble calendula extract
2% sodium lactate

5% Natragem EW *
3% cetyl alcohol
3% cocoa butter
8% evening primrose oil
5% kukui nut oil

1% Vitamin E
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Follow the basic lotion making instructions for this product.

*You might remember that we can use this emulsifier in the heated oil or heated water phase. I chose to use it in the heated oil phase because I wanted a thicker feeling lotion.

I decided I wanted to make a four times batch so I can share it with my testers, so I multiplied all the amounts by 4. I weighed out the heated oil phase first, then put it into my double boiler. I weighed out the heated water phase, and I used some distilled water I had boiled about 30 minutes before so it would be a little warmer. Before putting the heated water phase jug into the double boiler, I weighed it 890 grams.

I allowed both the water and oil jugs to come to 70˚C, then I reduced the temperature on my double boiler and heated and held them. The oil phase was at 80˚C when I got ready to remove it 20 minutes later.

After heating and holding, the heated water phase weighed 864 grams, so I added 26 grams of water I had boiled previously and let cool slightly. The water was at 76˚C while the heated water phase was at 82˚C. It was 81˚C when I added the oil phase to it.

It didn't emulsify immediately. If you've ever used Ritamulse SCG, it did that thing where the two came together with some bits of oil spots floating in it, but within a minute of mixing with my hand mixer, it was looking more emulsified. After 3 minutes, it looked like lotion! I mixed for 7 minutes, then let it sit. This picture is of the product after the post-heat and hold mixing.

78 minutes later, the thermometer in the jug reached 45˚C, which meant it was time for the cool down phase. I added the cool down ingredients, liquid Germall Plus and Vitamin E, and mixed with my hand mixer for two minutes. (I plan to add the fragrance before bottling.) It was thicker by the time it reached the cool down phase.

Two hours after adding my cool down phase, the lotion remained emulsified. It was definitely thicker than it was at 12:25 when I stopped mixing and slightly thicker than it was at 1:43 when I added the cool down phase.

Wednesday - Looked at it in the workshop
It's definitely thicker than it was yesterday, but not as thick as the version I made with Ritamulse SCG. (I think that's because it has 3% less emulsifier in this version.) The marketing material notes that it can take a few days to thicken, and Bo noticed that it might take longer if it's humid or warm. I think I'm going to wait until Friday to package it because right now it looks like I could use a treatment pump for it and I would hate to waste those containers if it doesn't work out!

It goes on really nicely on my skin with lots of play time or time to rub it in, but there's a slightly waxy feeling I get just after applying it. I attribute this to the cetearyl alcohol because I've noticed it in the Ritamulse SCG version, but not the Polawax version, an ingredient that (most likely) doesn't contain cetearly alcohol.

Thursday - Looked at it again in the workshop...

Join me tomorrow to take another look at this recipe and how it is working!


melian1 said...

i love the way you've documented and reported on your experiment. times, temps, exact method. you are totally fabulous.

Catherine said...

Hi Susan
I really enjoyed reading this article. I was wondering what is your opinion on placing the warm lotion into a cold water bath to accelerate the cooling time?
Thanks a bunch,

Bo Penny said...

I actually like the fact that it takes a bit longer to thicken - this is a huge advantage when packaging creams and lotions. Once you're confident in your recipe and you established correct % of Natragem for each recipe you can pour creams and lotions before they thicken completely. At this point (thinner lotion or cream) filling the containers is easier and the cream surface looks nice and smooth. When creams thicken too fast and when poured into containers they look like someone has been using them because the surface looks lumpy and 'broken'. With Natragem I don't ever have to worry about that. Each container looks perfect because the cream has perfectly smooth surface :-)

Kirsten said...

Hi Susan

I thoroughly enjoy reading your blog and experimenting with some of your formulations. Have you ever tried an all-in-one emulsifier called Beautyderm HP? I got my hands on some as the information brochure stated that the water and oil phase could be placed and heated all together.

I tried it at 2.3% (odd percentage, I know) and the end product was quite pleasing. Have been using Olivem 1000 in my formulations, but will be switching to Beautyderm HP as there is quite a significant cost difference.

Thanks for all the interesting posts.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kirsten. Can you send me some links to my email address (sjbarclay@telus.net)? I'm intrigued. Can you send me the brochure or data bulletin or the name of the product and where I could access this information? Do you have a recipe to share or some pictures? You can't post something like this then leave me hanging!

Hi melian! I try to keep accurate records because there are so many little things that have an impact on a finished product, as you well know! Not heating and holding, not evaporating, mixing too long or too little...

Hi Catherine. I've never tried it, but I can't see it hurting all that much. I don't have problems waiting for cool down, generally, although the summer months can make it much longer!

Hi Bo! I don't like bottling warm any time because of potential condensation, but I can see the appeal. I will be doing all kinds of tests of this product over the next few weeks and updating the blog. I really like it so far, but it is thinner than my usual product. I'm hoping to hear from my testers soon to see how the skin feel compares to the Ritamulse SCG version! Thanks again for sending this to me!

Ruth said...

love this picture step process..

is this Natragem, an ingredient we can buy?

Bo Penny said...

Oh, I learned about condensation :-) I don't fill containers with warm cream either but wait until it cools down quite a bit. The problem I experienced in the past (with other waxes) is that once the lotion or cream has cooled enough to ensure there is no problem with condensation, it's usually too thick to pour and have a nice smooth top surface. Because Natragem (at the same % as Polawax for example) takes longer to thicken) I can pour my cream into containers and have that smooth shiny surface - they look just perfect :-)

Bo Penny said...

Hi Ruth, we imported Natragem from Europe and it's available for sale through our website www.pennylaneorganics.com
Regards - Bo Penny