Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Modifying the low surfactant foaming facial cleanser with foaming oat protein

I've been enjoying my low surfactant facial cleanser with foaming silk surfactant a lot, but there's always room for more tweaking! The Formulator Sample Shop sent me a bunch of really interesting new ingredients, so I thought I'd play with a new surfactant called foaming oat (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein).

Full disclosure: The Formulator Sample Shop has sent me a ton of free ingredients. I have made it clear that I will share my opinion, good or bad, about the ingredients I use. I have not been paid to use or write about the ingredients. The only things I have received are some kind words from the company and the ingredients. 

This ingredient is like the foaming silk surfactant I used in the previous version of this product. The oat version is called sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein. What does this mean? Cocoyl means that coconut fatty acids were used to make this product and that it was joined with hydrolyzed oat protein to create a foaming hydrolyzed oat protein that can be used as a cleanser. It is a surfactant - meaning it as has a lipophilic or fat loving tail and a hydrophilic or water loving head - so it can bring oil and water together. It is negatively charged (anionic), which means we can use it as a cleansing agent. It foams and lathers, not much, but a nice amount, so we can use it as a foaming, lathering, gentle to mild cleanser in our products. It's water soluble and heat stable, so we can use it in the heated water phase of our products at 1% to 10%. 

My skin generally likes oat proteins more than it likes silk proteins, so I thought I'd try using the oat protein version to see if there was a difference. I kept every ingredient the same so I could figure out what the oat protein brought to the party. 

5% foaming oat surfactant
5% decyl glucoside
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% apple extract (liquid)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
49% water

1% ginger root extract
5% honey matte
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract

Combine the heated phase in a heat proof container, like a Pyrex jug, and put into a double boiler and heat until it reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the heat and replace the water that might have evaporated. Mix and allow to cool to 45˚C before adding the cool down phase. Add the cool down phase, mix well, then let cool to room temperature before bottling in a foamer bottle. 

I really like this recipe, and I think I like the foaming oat surfactant version more. In all honesty, I don't think I'd know the difference if I hadn't put a label on it, but it looks like my face is a little less irritated - my skin is really really sensitive, and the oils from my hands are enough to irritate it - and I'm not generating any more oil than usual. (My family has mentioned my skin is looking better, which is a nice thing.) 

If you want to make this recipe but don't have a ton of these ingredients, what could you do? Join me tomorrow and we'll take a look at what is truly essential for this recipe and how we can substitute those things! 

As an aside, I know I suck at coming up with names for my products, but that's because I want to make it easy for you to know what I'm making. This product should be called something like Oats & Honey facial cleanser, but that doesn't help you if you are searching for a low surfactant facial cleanser that can go into a foamer bottle. 

Related posts:
How a shampoo works (The mechanism is the same for cleaning anything!) 


lunamac said...

So glad you call your products by their real functional name rather than some fancier name as it tells us exactly what it is we are reading about and makes it so much easier to search. Thanks so much.

7slaper said...

Though it is very cool that new surfs like the hydrolized oats type are getting available, at the same time I think the same result can be obtained by adding hydrolized prot to your fav surf. The same goes for silk.
Perhaps a bit less convenient, getting a stable emulsion, but it seems cheaper. I love surfs, but there is a limit to everything.
But great recipes Susan; you're the best !