Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Making a Japanese themed body wash - other ingredients

When making just about anything with surfactants, you want to think about adding other things like moisturizers, humectants, skin conditioners, and so on because when they're alone, surfactants can feel a bit drying, no matter how gentle or mild they may be.

If you have no idea what's going on, please check out part one and part two of making a Japanese themed body wash! I'm calling it Japanese themed because it contains bamboo, willow bark, and seaweed extract. You can modify it to include any ingredients you wish! 

In this product, I'm including these ingredients for these reasons. (Click on each ingredient to learn a lot more!)

Aloe vera: Moisturizing. The electrolytes in aloe vera also help thicken my product.

Glyceryl cocoate: A non-ionic, low ethoxylated monoglyceride that can behave as an emulsifier, emollient, foamer, and skin conditioner in our products. It is a thickening polymer, meaning it will thicken your surfactant mix when used with anionic surfactants. It is emollient, which means it will reduce skin irritation from other surfactants, and will re-fatten your skin when you are bathing or shampooing. It can make the foam feel slippery, which is a nice thing in a body wash.

Myristamine oxide: A cleansing agent, emulsifier, hair conditioner, emollient, foam stabilizer, viscosity booster, and foam booster. Used at 5% to 20% in the heated water phase.

Glycerin: A humectant and bubble booster!

Hydrolyzed oat protein: Humectant and film former.

Chamomile hydrosol: I'm using it here for its anti-inflammatory properties. I used the hydrosol in this case to get the benefits without discolouring my product.

Water soluble shea butter: It's a PEG ester that works as an emollient, anti-irritant, and possible thickener for the product.

Bull kelp bioferment: A film former and oil free emollient that works like a protein to moisturize your skin. (This one had no smell!) If you don't have this, you can use more hydrolyzed protein.

Willow bark extract (liquid): I love this ingredient for the anti-inflammatory properties offered by the salicylic acid. I would normally use the powder at 0.5% in the cool down phase, but I used the liquid because it is standardized to 10% saliyclic acid, which means I have more control over it, and because it wouldn't discolour my product.

Honeyquat: A cationic polymer that behaves as a skin conditioner and humectant.

Biowater bamboo extract (INCI: Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate). A liquid that offers moisturizing and conditioning to our skin, it is supposed to offer increased hydration of our skin. It can be used at 2% to 5% in the cool down phase of the product.

Liquid Germall Plus: Preservative. I use it at 0.5%, the maximum suggested rate, because I never know what people might do to a product after it leaves my hands!

Panthenol: A vitamin and humectant. It offers anti-itching and anti-inflammatory properties. (Read more here.)

Fragrance oil: Because I like to smell pretty!

Why didn't I include water in this product? I forgot. I was so into adding all these new things that I didn't leave room for it. If you don't have all these lovely ingredients, leave that thing out and add a similar percent in water. Don't have aloe vera? Add 10% water in its place. Don't have chamomile hydrosol? Add 9% water in its place. And so on.

If you don't have something, check out its purpose and see what you could use instead. If you want a humectant but don't have glycerin, think about another one (look in the humectants section of the blog). If you want a cationic polymer but don't have honeyquat, choose another one and use it at the suggested usage rate.

I really encourage you to read this series on creating a surfactant based facial cleanser as it goes into mucher greater detail about why I'm including these things I'm including.

Part one - surfactants, water, and preservatives
Part two - humectants and exfoliants
Part three - increasing mildness and rinseability
Part four - thickening

Join me later this week for some ideas on how to substitute some ingredients for others!

In the spirit of full disclosure, I was sent the bull kelp bioferment, biowater bamboo extract, and willow bark extract for free by the Formulator Sample Shop. I was not paid to talk about them, and I made it clear to the shop that I would give my honest opinion about the ingredients. 

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