originally found in this post, but I thought I'd share it again with more detail (with plans for an upcoming SnapGuide visual tutorial). What I've created is a basically a lotion bar with very dry and less greasy feeling oils and butters with some oil soluble titanium dioxide used to create a white background.
Most of the primers you see will be an oil-in-water product and it seems like most of them contain silicones. I love silicones and think they're a fantastic addition to this product, too, but I worried that I would have to pour the recipe too hot to include cyclomethicone and dimethicone, both of which are heat sensitive. I have done it before - as you can see in this recipe - but I thought I'd offer a version without them here.
The key to this recipe is using dry feeling oils. I chose mango butter as it will offer stiffness and hardness to the bar without adding a ton of greasiness. I chose fractionated coconut oil because it is very light and not as greasy as some oils, and kukui nut oil because I had quite a bit of it and absolutely love it.
If you want to make tweaks, cocoa butter is a better substitute for mango butter than shea butter. Or choose one of these exotic butters. Coconut oil is not appropriate for this application as it will melt at 24˚C or 76˚C, and that's simply too low. Substitute hazelnut or macadamia nut oil for all of the oils, if you wish. Grapeseed oil would work as well, but the three month shelf life just simply isn't long enough for a product like this. Evening primrose, borage, and a lot of the exotic oils would work well here, and considering you're only making 100 grams at the most of this product, you wouldn't be using much!
Titanium dioxide is a whiter ingredient than zinc oxide - in fact, it's one of the whitest ingredients on earth! - but you can use either. You'll get a whiter product with titanium dioxide than zinc oxide. I've used 15% in this recipe - I don't recommend going higher as it really was too thick to pour at 20%.
Finally, I encourage you to consider making 50 grams of this product rather than 100 grams or more as you will get quite a lot of out of it. I made 9 tubes from 50 grams!
ANHYDROUS EYE SHADOW PRIMER
25% mango butter
40% oils of choice
15% oil soluble titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
0.5% Vitamin E (optional)
Place all the heated phase ingredients into a heatproof container and melt in a double boiler until all the ingredients have melted. Then heat it for another 10 minutes. We want this to be really hot because it needs to be very liquid to pour into the lip balm tubes after adding the titanium dioxide.
Remove from the heat and add the powder. Mix really really well and pour into the tubes. Stop to mix every few tubes because it really wants to sink to the bottom of the jug! Let the tubes sit until hardened. I like to put mine in the fridge after hardening just to make sure they are solid. Rejoice!
The reason for those little divots is that I poured it too warm. But if I poured it cooler, I wouldn't have been able to pour it at all, so I accept the divots. You can pour it a little lower, put a cross in the top of the primer with a small knife, then pour some more on top if you want a perfect top. I don't worry about it, but you might!
In case you were wondering, I buy my lip balm packaging at Voyageur Soap & Candle. Click here for the coloured ones, click here for the clear oval ones. I mention this as someone will ask and I want you to have cute things. I am not affiliated with Voyageur Soap & Candle in any way, other than absolutely loving their products and their constant support of my youth programs, as demonstrated by their discounts and donations!
Back to the very basics: Defining our terms for anhydrous products
Newbie Tuesday: Formulating lotion bars