Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Newbie Tuesday: Creating whipped butters - recipes to try!

Sorry for the break in these posts, but it's been a long and painful few weeks out of the workshop and away from the computer thanks to my back (which is getting better, thanks!). Let's recap the previous posts...

Newbie Tuesday: Learning about oils & butters - an introduction
Newbie Tuesday: Testing the skin feel of our oils
Newbie Tuesday: Creating a body oil
Newbie Tuesday: Pushing the schedule back - more thoughts on skin feel of our oils
Newbie Tuesday: What did you learn about the skin feel of your oils?
Newbie Tuesday: Creating whipped butters - choosing your butter
Emollients - oils, butters & esters

Check out my visual tutorial on SnapGuide to see the process of making whipped butter in action! (Thanks for making it so popular! It's been in the Featured, Popular, and Mother's Day guides!)

80% butter
19% oils
1% fragrance or essential oil

Melt the oils and butter in a double boiler until just melted. Put into the freezer until it gets a layer of solid oils on top. Remove, and add your fragrance or essential oils. Mix with a whisk attachment until it almost doubles in size. Put into a container. Rejoice.

Here's the part where all your hard work and experimenting pays off! What oil and butter combination do you want to use? If you like a greasier feeling product, what combination would offer that skin feel? If you want a drier feeling, silkier product, what combination would offer that skin feel?

Consider combining oils together. If you like the Vitamin E and barrier repair function features of soy bean oil but fear the greasiness, consider using 10% soybean oil with 10% macadamia nut or another dry feeling oil. Love olive oil, but want more linoleic acid? Consider 10% with soy bean, sunflower, or rice bran oil. Try different combinations to see what feels nice!

Consider combining the butters. The first whipped butter I ever made was 30% cocoa butter, 50% mango butter, and 20% oils. It was too hard, but I liked the inclusion of the cocoa butter as an occlusive and barrier ingredient. I modified it to 15% cocoa butter and 65% mango and really liked that combination. Heck, go really nuts and try something like 20% avocado butter, 10% cocoa butter, and 40% shea butter with your oils to see what each brings to the party!

Let's stop for a moment and consider some combinations. If we assume 80% butter and 19% oil, what do you think shea butter and soy bean would feel like? Shea and olive oil? Shea and avocado? What about mango butter and soy bean oil? Mango and olive oil? Mango and avocado? What would be less greasy - mango and macadamia nut or mango and soy bean oil? Which combinations have you tried? Which ones did you love and which will you not try again? Share your favourites in the comments!

Consider lowering the butter amount. What would 70% mango butter and 29% oils feel like? What about 60% cocoa butter and 39% oils? At what point does the product stop looking and feeling like a whipped butter?

Consider using a non-butter butter. Something that has "hydrogenated vegetable oil" in it isn't a real butter, like avocado or soy butter, but they can make really nice whipped butters. I found the soy butter I had didn't need melting, and made for a really whipped and creamy product!

May I make a suggestion? Make smaller batches of whipped butters when you're starting out because you'll want to play with a newversion long before you've used it all. Consider doing half the recipe for a total of 50 grams - so 40 grams butter, 10 grams oils - so you can make more when the desire to creates hits you!

You can add anything oil soluble you want to a whipped butter. Consider these options...

  • Consider silicones like cyclomethicone and dimethicone. I have found that up to 5% cyclomethicone and up to 5% dimethicone can make a butter feel drier and silkier. Plus dimethicone is an approved barrier ingredient - along with allantoin and cocoa butter - so you get some nice occlusion there.
  • Consider adding esters to replace the oils and create a drier feeling product. Adding an ester like ceteraryl ethylhexanoate or IPM at up to 10% can create a really dry feeling product! I often add IPM (isopropyl myristate) at up to 5% for a drier feeling, less greasy whipped butter.
  • Consider adding oil soluble extracts at up to their suggested usage rate. I'm having a love affair with oil soluble green tea extract and oil soluble mallow extract!

Please don't try to add something water soluble. That requires an emulsifier and it's really not the point of the product. If you want to add things like humectants or water soluble extracts, consider venturing into lotion making with an emulsified body butter. Or consider using something on your skin like a toner or hydrosol before applying the whipped butter. It really is a massive pain in the bum to try to add as little as 3% glycerin or other humectant when we could just slather ourselves with something before applying the butter.

Or try a non-butter butter like aloe butter or shea-aloe butter to include something like aloe. There are some really neat non-butters you can get from our suppliers. I really liked the green tea butter I found at Soapcraft.ca, but it appears she's out, which is a great way to get the awesome power of green tea into a product without having to worry about using a water soluble extract!

So what did you make? What did you love? What didn't you love? What will you try differently next time and what will you do every time? What did you learn that you can share with your fellow newbies? And veterans - what do you suggest?

Join me next Tuesday as we take a look at your recipes and suggestions before moving on to lotion bars!


Adele said...

I scoured all of your whipped butter posts in search of info to make a belly butter.

The first batch was too runny as I doubled the jojoba oil (silly me) and added too much coconut oil. Below is the finished recipe which I whipped and spooned into some tins. It's LOVELY- thick, melts on skin, smells like chocolate. I was torn about using cocoa butter in a product used during pregnancy as my bestie is very concerned about adding any caffeine during this time... But I went for it, cause it's not for her :) and I love the texture and smell.

My percentages do not add up to 100 because I doubled the jojoba and then added more cocoa butter to compensate. And I admit I'm not terribly concerned with a little overage here and there in an anhydrous product.

Shea (224g)
Cocoa Butter (114g)
Mango Butter (40g)
Coconut Oil 76 (106g)

Jojoba Oil (102g)
Calendula Oil (31g)
Wheat Germ Oil (26g)

Vit E Oil (1.5g) Not even sure why I included this, just seemed like a good idea
Few drops of Bergamot, Lavender, Vanilla essential oils, which all got lost in the cocoa butter addition

I ended up with approx 30oz of product. The 'mistake' version was more akin to vaseline- not a bad thing, but not what I was after. The only difference was it only had 51g of cocoa butter. Not suitable for tins, but a jar with a screw lid would have been fine.
I'm quite happy with the texture and weight of this butter- it has all the good things in it that I wanted. It smells a little more strongly of chocolate than I had planned, but that's not such a bad thing either :)

Eurie Yeo said...

Regarding emulsifiers, I've seen some body butters with water as the number one ingredient along with glycerin towards the end which are the only ingredients added that would require the emulsifier. Do these ingredients make the body butter more fluffy? Not sure the purpose of adding the water as the largest ingredient. Or maybe making it lighter on the skin or easier to absorb?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Eurie. The body butters you are looking at are lotions with water in them. The water is necessary to hydrate our skin and the oil in the product helps form a film to trap in the water. These products would feel lighter on your skin than an all oil body butter would be.

There is no one definition for a body butter. It is a butter that can be used on the body, but it might contain water or it might not. So the ones with water and glycerin are proper lotions that are thicker than something like a hand lotion.

Christine said...

Hi, Susan,
I love and appreciate your blogs. So helpful!

I'm trying to formulate a body butter that won't melt in the summer heat during delivery. I saw your whipped body butter made mostly with soy butter and wondered how that would withstand the heat. (I live in steamy GA.)

Thank you, in advance, for your help.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Christine. I've answered your question in today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is that no, you wouldn't want to use soy butter in a heatproofed whipped butter.

Christine said...

Thank you, Susan.

Katy Jane said...

Hi, Your blogs are great! I am new to making my own lotions and they are such interesting reads. How would I make the butter slightly thinner? Looking at something like a body lotion/hand cream thickness, able to store in a plastic bottle with a flip lid. Thank you :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Katy Jane! You can try adding more liquid oil and reducing the butter and see if you like that. I would suggest making a lotion instead, though.

jnewby said...

Would adding a small amount of beeswax to a whipped butter recipe be agreeable? We have our own wax from our bees and love adding that to products, but I'd love to see if I can make some less salve or balm-like.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi jnewby! It depends on what you want the beeswax to do and what you want the end skin feel to be. It will make your product stiffer and more waxy feeling. Why don't you try a batch and see what you think?

Kelly Kemp said...

Hi Susan and I think you are going to have to read my other posting of a question.. as it says if older than X .. you or moderator will review before submitting.. WELL HERE IS MY ANSWER!! lol.. just wanted to let you know about the question re: why water.. I just kept reading and found it. Sorry I jump the gun .. I will learn to continue reading more before submitting a question. Thanks so much for the wealth of information and wisdom you share!

Krista Henderson said...

Hello Susan. I'm thinking of taking your suggestion and adding the Dimethicone and the IPM. Would I substitute it for some of the butter, or the oil? Or what do you recommend?



Krista Henderson said...

HI Susan. Would I substitute the butter or the oils with the dimethicone and IPM?

Ashlee said...

I made my first body butter - 74% shea butter and 26% borage oil - which feels as nice as I imagined. I kind of wish I had some eczema breakouts to put it on, lol. However, I think I left it in the freezer too long as it didn't fluff up at all when I tried blending it. I'm thinking of adding dimethicone once I figure that out - do I use the same ratio of butter:oil or do I substitute part of one of them for the silicones?