Newbie Tuesday: Learning about oils & butters - an introduction
Newbie Tuesday: Testing the skin feel of our oils
Newbie Tuesday: Creating a body oil
Newbie Tuesday: Pushing the schedule back - more thoughts on skin feel of our oils
Newbie Tuesday: What did you learn about the skin feel of your oils?
Newbie Tuesday: Creating whipped butters - choosing your butter
Emollients - oils, butters & esters
Check out my visual tutorial on SnapGuide to see the process of making whipped butter in action! (Thanks for making it so popular! It's been in the Featured, Popular, and Mother's Day guides!)
BASIC WHIPPED BUTTER
1% fragrance or essential oil
Melt the oils and butter in a double boiler until just melted. Put into the freezer until it gets a layer of solid oils on top. Remove, and add your fragrance or essential oils. Mix with a whisk attachment until it almost doubles in size. Put into a container. Rejoice.
Here's the part where all your hard work and experimenting pays off! What oil and butter combination do you want to use? If you like a greasier feeling product, what combination would offer that skin feel? If you want a drier feeling, silkier product, what combination would offer that skin feel?
Consider combining oils together. If you like the Vitamin E and barrier repair function features of soy bean oil but fear the greasiness, consider using 10% soybean oil with 10% macadamia nut or another dry feeling oil. Love olive oil, but want more linoleic acid? Consider 10% with soy bean, sunflower, or rice bran oil. Try different combinations to see what feels nice!
Consider combining the butters. The first whipped butter I ever made was 30% cocoa butter, 50% mango butter, and 20% oils. It was too hard, but I liked the inclusion of the cocoa butter as an occlusive and barrier ingredient. I modified it to 15% cocoa butter and 65% mango and really liked that combination. Heck, go really nuts and try something like 20% avocado butter, 10% cocoa butter, and 40% shea butter with your oils to see what each brings to the party!
Let's stop for a moment and consider some combinations. If we assume 80% butter and 19% oil, what do you think shea butter and soy bean would feel like? Shea and olive oil? Shea and avocado? What about mango butter and soy bean oil? Mango and olive oil? Mango and avocado? What would be less greasy - mango and macadamia nut or mango and soy bean oil? Which combinations have you tried? Which ones did you love and which will you not try again? Share your favourites in the comments!
Consider lowering the butter amount. What would 70% mango butter and 29% oils feel like? What about 60% cocoa butter and 39% oils? At what point does the product stop looking and feeling like a whipped butter?
Consider using a non-butter butter. Something that has "hydrogenated vegetable oil" in it isn't a real butter, like avocado or soy butter, but they can make really nice whipped butters. I found the soy butter I had didn't need melting, and made for a really whipped and creamy product!
May I make a suggestion? Make smaller batches of whipped butters when you're starting out because you'll want to play with a newversion long before you've used it all. Consider doing half the recipe for a total of 50 grams - so 40 grams butter, 10 grams oils - so you can make more when the desire to creates hits you!
You can add anything oil soluble you want to a whipped butter. Consider these options...
- Consider silicones like cyclomethicone and dimethicone. I have found that up to 5% cyclomethicone and up to 5% dimethicone can make a butter feel drier and silkier. Plus dimethicone is an approved barrier ingredient - along with allantoin and cocoa butter - so you get some nice occlusion there.
- Consider adding esters to replace the oils and create a drier feeling product. Adding an ester like ceteraryl ethylhexanoate or IPM at up to 10% can create a really dry feeling product! I often add IPM (isopropyl myristate) at up to 5% for a drier feeling, less greasy whipped butter.
- Consider adding oil soluble extracts at up to their suggested usage rate. I'm having a love affair with oil soluble green tea extract and oil soluble mallow extract!
Please don't try to add something water soluble. That requires an emulsifier and it's really not the point of the product. If you want to add things like humectants or water soluble extracts, consider venturing into lotion making with an emulsified body butter. Or consider using something on your skin like a toner or hydrosol before applying the whipped butter. It really is a massive pain in the bum to try to add as little as 3% glycerin or other humectant when we could just slather ourselves with something before applying the butter.
Or try a non-butter butter like aloe butter or shea-aloe butter to include something like aloe. There are some really neat non-butters you can get from our suppliers. I really liked the green tea butter I found at Soapcraft.ca, but it appears she's out, which is a great way to get the awesome power of green tea into a product without having to worry about using a water soluble extract!
So what did you make? What did you love? What didn't you love? What will you try differently next time and what will you do every time? What did you learn that you can share with your fellow newbies? And veterans - what do you suggest?
Join me next Tuesday as we take a look at your recipes and suggestions before moving on to lotion bars!