Friday, April 26, 2013

It's Friday! Weight vs. volume, language we use, and an eye shadow primer recipe.

Hope you're having a spectacular week with a wonderful weekend to come! I'm drinking my cup of tea waiting to leave the house before my exam, and there's no point in studying now, so I thought I'd share a few thoughts for the day...

You cannot convert my recipes into volume measurements, which is to say they must be weighed. You can't look at something like 9% oil and convert it into 9 ml of oil or 6% Polawax and convert that into 6 ml of Polawax - it just won't work and your recipe will fail. If you really want to make bath and body products, get a digital scale. They aren't expensive and they can be found places like London Drugs or Wal-Mart or other large retailers for $10 to $40. It is well worth it.

Related posts:
Weight vs. volume
How do we convert from percentages to grams?

Think about the terms you use. What does it mean to "condition" your hair? What is a hair "conditioner"? What is a skin "conditioner"? What is a "moisturizer"? What does it mean to "soothe" or "alleviate" or "help" a problem? What does "nourish" mean? There are so many words we use to describe what our products do - what do these terms mean and how might they do these things? Think about these terms - there'll be a test*.

*No, there won't. But there will be a post on this topic next week.

If you want to make an eye shadow primer, here's a really easy one we made yesterday with our craft group. I've chosen all these ingredients because they are dry or less greasy feeling. If you substitute them for something more greasy, you will get a greasier product. (Excuse the messiness of the picture, but it was a wild and whacky night last night at craft group!)

20% beeswax
25% mango butter
36% oils - fractionated coconut, hazelnut, or macadamia nut oils - or esters

15% zinc oxide (oil soluble)
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone

Weigh and melt the phase until all the solids are liquid. Remove and add the cool down phase. Mix really really well and make sure the zinc oxide isn't all at the bottom as you're filling your containers. I like to use these lip balm tubes as it makes it easier to apply. Let cool, use, rejoice!

I really don't suggest changing the oils for anything greasier as you don't want something really greasy on your eyes because it'll mess with your mascara. If you want to make a non-anhydrous primer, use this stuff - without the beeswax - and create a nice lotion. You can go up to 25% zinc oxide in this recipe either way.

Have a great day, and join me tomorrow when posting gets back to normal (mostly!)


Marion Strickland said...

Great Post. I work quite a bit with small Cosmetic lines that want to transition over to a Contract Manufacturer. Oftentimes I will be presented with "our wonderful Formula" which is done in volume. At this point, you really in the strictest sense don't really have a Formula. WORK WITH WEIGHT! It will greatly facilitate the process if you grow large enough to go to a Manufacturer and in scale-up weight is much more accurate.

Kathy said...

Thanks for the Post. What does the zinc oxide contribute to the formula? Thanks.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Marion! Someone was telling me about a contract manufacturer who wanted to work only in volume! Can you imagine?

Hi Kathy! The zinc oxide makes the primer slightly white and gives you a canvas for your make-up!

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

Hello Susan, this post is very timely.

I'm just reading your e-book on Formulating and preparing to try some recipes. I also purchased a digital kitchen scale so I can weigh all my ingredients. But I'm still a bit challenged when I have a weight like 0.5% liquid germall or 0.5% powdered chamomile extract.
My scale appears not to allow me to go below 2 g. Can you suggest how I can convert below 2g in liquid or solid? Do I need a better scale?

Many thanks.

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

Hello Susan, I think I've answered my own question. I should have gotten an Escali scale that measures in smaller increments (the one you recommended in a related post). I guess for 0.5%, I'll have to use a 1/4 tsp measure and hope for the best.

I just realized that you've not been well with a bad back. I do hope you're feeling better today. I know how inconvenient lower back issues can be.

Take care.

Chaeya said...

I have four scales in my house. Since I make between 500 and 1200 grams of product each go, I use this to measure my water. I have my digital scale that measures small amounts below a gram because some recipes I have to go 0.2 grams. While some of the kitchen scales claim they will do this, they aren't reliable. This scale a My Weigh i200 is so sensitive you can blow on it and it measures. The downside that I don't like is that it reacts to neighboring electronics and won't measure correctly. I did go to the bong shop and purchase a tiny gram scale for $35. It also measures in 0.01 grams, so I can work. I'm annoyed that I could have saved myself $128!!! I also have my kitchen scale from Walmart that I use when filling my bottles. It works great with 1 - 8 ounces.

I strongly suggest that people invest in a good scale because I used my Walmart scale at first and although it claimed to measure at 0.5 grams, it wasn't accurate and my recipe didn't turn out well.

I formulate with percentages, especially since I try new ingredients and I go with their suggested percentages.

Elizabeth Aqui-Seto said...

Thank you Chaeya for sharing your comments on the challenges of finding the right scale. I'll have to locate one online or perhaps try a bong store.

Cushla Grace said...

Would this formulation work for lips without the titanium dioxide? Would it be OK to increase the silicones?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Cushla! Yes, it's a lovely recipe without the zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. You can increase the silicones, if you want. Just keep them in the cool down phase!

Katia Baptista said...

Hello girls, does anyone ever tried Diatomaceous Earth in a foundation or eye shadow? Does it block pores or irritate the skin?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Katia. What is the purpose of adding this diatomaceous earth? Which ingredient would it replace? Why use this over another ingredient? Just curious...
BTW: Very cute puppy in your picture!

Juanita Miglio said...

I am going to attempt the eyeshadow primer but wondering if this is at all oily? How is it's staying power?

Juanita Miglio said...

Hey there Susan
If I were to substitute carnauba wax in the recipe for the beeswax at what percentage would you recommend?
Would you change the percentage of the wax, butter and oil? If so what would you recommend?

I will be using mango for the butter
I will be using fractionated coconut for the oil
Oil soluble titanium dioxide
and the silicones both at 2% as the recipe states

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Juanita! Generally we use half the amount of wax when substituting for beeswax. I don't know which you would increase because I don't know how hard the product will be at the end. Try increasing the butter and see what you think. This is something you'll have to figure out through trial and error!

Juanita Miglio said...

Thank you, this will give me a great starting point. And as always, thank you so much for sharing with all of us!!
I do want to make more of a cream type eyeshadow primer; as soon as I look up the ingredients to the one I have been using and love I will share here because I would love to know how to make it or something very similar.

Rena Bovair said...

Hi Susan! I took your course on lotions at Voyageur last Saturday and had a blast.

Anyway, I thought I'd respond to one of your posts to let you know I tried this recipe (among others). I actually included a bit of In the Nude mica as well, to tint it a bit because I prefer more neutral coloured primer. It worked great! I've been using mine exclusively for months now, abandoning my other primers.

All that said, do you know of a way to mix that zinc oxide better so it doesn't settle so much? I stirred and stirred but couldn't pour and mix quickly enough to avoid a big clump of powder in the bottom of my mixing container.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Rena! I had a great time in the class, too!

No, the zinc oxide is a pain in the bum to work with, and my only suggestion is to work fast. You can also use oil soluble titanium dioxide, which is slightly easier to use and mix in, but not by a heck of a lot. I'm hoping to do some playing with the nano zinc oxide/titanium dioxide in the near future, and think that might work better.

Can I ask you how much nude you're using? I'd love to try mixing some in to see what it looks like, and it's not like I don't own every single mica at Voyageur!!!

Rena Bovair said...

I looked over my notes, and I guess it was one of the very few projects for which I didn't capture notes in my handy notebook. I wish I knew how much I used! I think I probably looked to one of your tinted lip balm recipes for proportions.