this post on hydrolyzed oat protein, Marjo commented: I love the benefits described and tried today a testbatch.. But indeed i have real issue with the smell too... Wow it is really smelly! I think I will stick to silk and elastine.
It's interesting how we react differently to different ingredients! As I've mentioned quite a few times, I can't stand really earthy or musty smells. (If you wanted to make a Swift repellant, throw a few drops of patchouli with chamomile and I'd avoid you like broccoli!) I find hydrolyzed proteins tend to smell a bit musty, but when combined with other ingredients, I don't notice. I do notice slightly it in a toner or a facial cleanser, things that don't get fragranced. Do you notice the smell of the silk? (And what is elastine? Just curious!)
What ingredients do you avoid because of the smell? What do you use, but kinda don't like?
In this post, Kate Melton said: Hi, I like your blog, because it's very informative. Little question: Is it true that when you use an ''all in one kind'' emulsifier like the e-wax/polawax/BTMS, you don't need look at the HLB of your oil phase etc. (like you do in this post). I really hope you want to give me some clarification about this:D!
Thanks for the kind words, Kate! Yes, it is true that you don't need to look at the HLB value of the oil phase if you're using an all-in-one emulsifier. That's the point of using them. When we use Polawax, Ritamulse SCG, or Incroquat BTMS-50, we total up the oil phase - all the oil soluble things in the heated oil phase and the cool down phase - and figure out the emulsifier. For Polawax, the rule of thumb is 25% of the oil phase. For Ritamulse SCG, really don't go over 25% oils. (I generally use 8% Ritamulse SCG regardless of size of oil phase because I've found it is really particular stuff! I think it was Tara who said she finds 6% works for her!) For Incroquat BTMS-50...there isn't a rule of thumb. For other emulsifiers, check with your supplier to make sure it's an all in one product before you buy it and contact them for more information if you aren't sure! Make sure you ask them how much you should use!
I know this sounds like a silly suggestion, but you'd be surprised how many people write to me asking about the usage rates and phases for the ingredients because the suppliers either don't know or won't respond!
Emulsifiers: E-wax, Polawax, and Incroquat BTMS-50
Emulsifiers: Check what you've got!
Learning to formulate: The oil phase
In this post, Sanziene writes: What is your favourite preservative for water free products? I am planning to make some solid cream bars to giveaway to friends and family (nothing fancy, just emulsifying wax, oils and butters, some mica and perhaps fragrance) but I am worried about preservation. I only have LGP and Microkill COS at home. Planning to place a lotioncrafter order soon, so I was wondering if I should choose Phenonip or some other oil soluble preservative?
Also, is there a paraben-free oil soluble preservative that you would endorse? I have nothing against parabens, but I have a hard time convincing my relatives that they are safe :). So, if possible, I would love to add a broad spectrum preservative, oil soluble and paraben free (Phenonip is actually in my cart already, but I am just wondering if there might be something else.... maybe on a different supplier?)
Ok, now you mention there that one could use Optiphen. Mikrokill COS is phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol and chlorphenesin. It is not water soluble, so that means for me oil soluble, is this correct? I could use it in the solid shower cream, but I ... I'd like to hear first your opinion (in the meantime I am doing additional research :)
As you noted in your comment, I addressed this issue in this post about adding preservatives to your anhydrous hair care products, but I think we should re-visit it here! My favourite preservative for anhydrous products is Phenonip. I have no issue with parabens as they are effective and very easy to use preservatives for anhydrous products. I find it works very well at 0.5% to 1% in my products.
Taking a look at the preservative comparision chart, I can see that Liquipar Oil, Liquipar Optima, Liquipar PE, and Phenonip are all suitable for anhydrous products. The Optiphen products might be good for your products as well. I can't fully endorse any of them as I haven't tested them, but I have heard great feedback from so many people about them that I think they'd be great choices.
The data sheet for Mikrokill COS is a little vague, but I think we can interpret it as being an oil soluble preservative. (Phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin are oil soluble, so it stands to reason the preservativec would be oil soluble.) So yes, it sounds like a good choice. Again, I haven't used this preservative - there's only so much time in the day! - but using the data sheets and tiny bit of research I've done, it sounds like a good choice.
Before you write to me about the evils of parabens, please take a moment read this blog post by Dr Joe Schwarz. His conclusions: The studies were not good ones and the conclusions can't be trusted. While you're out there, check out this post on argan oil. His conclusion: Meh.
If you want to read more of Dr Joe Schwarcz, I recommend his books, or check out the cosmetic section of Chemically Speaking, or check out his blog at CJAD. I love this guy! Oh, and read this speech he gave to Parliament. Fantastic! Finally, check out the blog at the Office of Science & Society. It's great!
Preservatives section of the blog
Preservatives: Choosing a preservative