Friday, January 4, 2013

Facial products - tweaking the emulsified scrubs

As we saw yesterday, we can make lovely emulsified scrubs for our faces if we tweak the ingredients slightly. So let's take a look at a few more versions we could make!

As a quick aside, doesn't that look delicious? I've told the story before, but my husband looked at and smelled a batch I made with Clementine Cupcake (Brambleberry) and said, "Why does everything in this house look like a cupcake or smells like a cupcake, but nothing tastes like cupcakes?" Because I love cupcakes! 

10% BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225
5% behenyl alcohol
5% cetearyl alcohol
10% kokum butter

10% babassu oil
10% pomegranate oil
10% calendula oil
38% oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E

When you're considering your hard butter, take a look at the other butters that can be used as substitutes for cocoa butter. Generally the list includes sal, illipe, and kokum. I thought I'd go with kokum butter because it will thicken up our product nicely and offer a drier feeling than cocoa butter. Feel free to substitute cocoa butter, mango butter, or your other favourite in its place.

Click here for a lotion bar I made using kokum butter. Very nice, but it will add some colour to your product! 

I chose babassu oil as it's a solid at room temperature oil that feels dry on our skin. It has a little bit of every fatty acid in it, and it feels quite dry. Plus it melts our skin's temperature, which feels very nice.

I chose pomegranate oil as it is a dry feeling oil that has been shown to be regenerating to our skin, offering anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. It can help with sunburned or chapped skin and improves skin's elasticity, and can stimulate regeneration in skin cells!

I chose calendula oil because of all that conjugated linoleic acid it brings to the party. CLA has been found to be very effective at reducing inflammation, lightening skin, and improving epidermal differentiation. There are some studies showing improvement in signs of photo-aging, skin tone, and dry skin using CLA. It has also been found to be regenerating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial. Studies of CLnA are showing it may increase elasticity to our skin.

For the rest of the oil phase, consider using up to 20% borage oil or up to 38% kukui nut oil or up to 38% another oil you love. We could make the calendula oil and pomegranate oil make up the total of the 58% oil phase, but it can get expensive. Consider adding a light feeling oil like fractionated coconut oil as the rest of the 38% for a light feeling of silkiness. There are tons of options for your oil phase - these are just examples of some expensive and fancy oils you could use!

10% Polawax or e-wax
10% cetyl alcohol or 5% cetyl alcohol, 5% stearic acid
10% cocoa butter
30% coconut oil
36% soy bean oil
1% Phenonip

As much as we love the spendy ingredients, we can make an awesome facial scrub using inexpensive oils and butters. Consider adding some coconut oil to your product - although it considered comedogenic and acnegenic - as it is the least expensive of the solid oils. Cocoa butter is a great occlusive, moisturizer, and thickener and it's the least expensive of our butters. Soy bean oil is a fantastic miosturizer that helps repair skin's barrier mechanisms and it's filled with Vitamin E, and it's probably the least expensive oil you can buy!

Join me tomorrow as we make a small detour from making facial scrubs to looking at some of the less expensive ingredients we can find!


Anonymous said...

Looks yummy!


catherine said...

Hi. I have what may sound like a weird issue. These oil based scrubs sound intriguing but I'm actually worried about having all that oil go down the drain. The plumbing in our home is old and I wouldn't want to stress it. In the kitchen I don't pour oil down the drain so it stands to reason I shouldn't in the tub as well. Has anyone had any tub clog problems with oil scrubs?

When I feel like a scrub I just mix some sea salt with my body wash. Would love to have a cleansing (soap free) scrub bar. But I have yet to successfully make just a cleansing bar...always too mushy.

Anonymous said...

Hi there! :)

Speaking of oils and emulsifiers, i have a product that i am wracking my brain to work out what is acting as the emulsifier. Can anyone help me?

Ingredients are: Water, sunflower oil, coconut oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, castor oil, sugar glycerin, chamomile, essential oils as fragrance, and colour.

Any help will be appreciated. :)