Monday, December 31, 2012

Facial scrubs: Adding the exfoliants to the oil base

As this post is all about the scrubbies, please refer to the physical exfoliants (part 1) and physical exfoliants (part 2) posts rather than having me recap them there. 

You've created your most excellent oil base for your facial scrub (dry and normal skin or oily skin), and now you want to add some scrubbies to it. The level of scrubbiness is up to you, and I suggest that you start on the low side and add more as you need it.

If you have sensitive skin, you'll want to avoid more scrubby things like sugar or salt and go with loofah, jojoba beads, and seeds. If you have heartier skin, choose anything you wish. (I feel comfortable saying that everyone should avoid pumice in a facial scrub! It really is too scrubby to be used regulalry!)

How to figure out how much exfoliant to use? I suggest removing 10 grams of your product (weigh it carefully) and adding 1 gram of scrubby at a time. Stir well, take to your sink, and try it out. If you want more, then add another 1 gram unless it's really obvious that this isn't enough! Write this amount down, then do some math. If you find that you need 5 grams to really feel the scrubbiness, then you'll want to make a note that when you're finished the product, add 50% of that exfoliant. If you find you need 10 grams, then you'll need 100% exfoliant. And so on. It will vary depending upon your exfoliant of choice. I'm using cranberry seeds at 13% in an oil based facial scrub, but I use 140% salt in an oil based body scrub. Keep really great records!

How the exfoliants are suspended in the facial scrub will depend upon the viscosity of your product. If you've used all oils, the scrubbies will likely fall to the bottom of the jar and require a stir each time. If you've added anything to thicken the product - butter, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, Lipidthix, and so on - you have a better chance of having it suspend. Something like salt will likely fall to the bottom, while loofah or jojoba beads might stay suspended.

If you really want something to suspend, you might want to consider an emulsified scrub for your facial products...which is what we'll look at next after a few question based posts on making facial scrubs! 

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