Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Making an eye cream: Tweaking it with other emulsifiers

Although I'm pleased as punch with my version of an eye cream with Ritamulse SCG, I get that you might have other ingredients or other requirements of the product. So let's take a look at some tweaks we could make in this product!

If you want to start at the beginning of this product creation, click here for part one, click here for part two, and click here for part three.

10% aloe vera
10% witch hazel
11% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2.5% sodium lactate
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
25% water

8% Ritamulse SCG
3% behenyl alcohol
11% macadamia nut oil
5% arnica oil

2% panthenol
5% Revital-Eyes
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Remember that the goal of this product is to provide a non-greasy and light feeling eye cream that might help with dark under eye circles and inflammation. If we keep those goals in mind, it makes tweaking easier. But note, changing your emulsifiers will change the skin feel and viscosity of the product. You will have to do some playing until you get what you want, but isn't that the fun part of making our own stuff?

If I have Polawax, I would use it at 25% of my oil phase. My oil phase without the Ritamulse SCG is 18%, which means we would use 4.5% Polawax in the heated oil phase. (Remember to increase your water phase by 3.5% to compensate for the change in emulsifier.)

4.5% Polawax
3% behenyl alcohol
11% macadamia nut oil
5% arnica oil

A quick aside to explain why I'm increasing my water amount by 3.5%. The amount of water in our products is the easiest thing to alter when we are creating. We can reduce or increase it when we add or remove ingredients. We always want our recipes to total 100%, so when we do something like change the emulsifier from 8% to 4.5%, our new recipe will total 96.5%. To keep it at 100%, we add 3.5% water to the heated water phase. To learn more, click here or start at the beginning of the formulating series and keep hitting "newer post" for the next installment. 

Substituting Ritamulse SCG with Polawax means the product might feel a bit greasier. You might like that, but you might also like a less greasy product. If that is the case, consider using something like IPM or IPP at up to 2% in place of another oil. We're already using macadamia nut oil, which is a less greasy feeling oil than some of our other choices, so an ester seems to be the easiest way to reduce the greasiness!

Incroquat BTMS-50 is not just used for hair conditioners - it's a good emulsifier that offers a powdery feeling to our products. There isn't a rule of thumb for using Incroquat BTMS-50 as an emulsifier, but I generally use it at the same level of Polawax. I know this is a little more than necessary, but I know that will produce a nicely emulsified product every time. So try it at 4.5% in your heated oil phase in place of the Ritamulse SCG and add 3.5% water to the heated water phase to compensate. Incroquat BTMS-50 will make the product slightly thicker than using Polawax, but you will get that less greasy or drier feeling in the product.

If you aren't sure what you have, please click here to learn how to determine what kind of BTMS you have based on the INCI.

Here's the problem with emulsifying wax - it differs a lot between each supplier. So to substitute with your version of e-wax, you'll have to find out the suggested usage rate for your specific ingredient. For instance, Voyageur Soap & Candle recommends we use their emulsifying wax at 1% more than we would use Polawax. Which means we would use 5.5% in this product and add 2.5% to the water phase.

Please don't ask me to help you with the e-wax you own. Please contact the supplier as they will be able to provide you with the information you need quickly. Or read this post to learn more about the different emulsifying waxes available to us. 

Related posts:
What if we increase our percentage beyond 100%?
Calculating percentages in our products. 

Join me tomorrow when we take a look at tweaking the oils in this eye cream!


Julie said...

Hi Susan,

I just got a new emulsifier, Lotionpro 165 from LotionCrafter, this week and was wondering if you could offer any thoughts on it. I made a version of a lotion I already had with the Lotionpro to see the difference between it and E Wax. I quite like the feel of the Lotionpro 165, it feels more luxurious to me. I originally tried to use it, before making a test batch first to see how it works, in a lotion I was making at 3.5% (which is what LC uses in a formulation with similar size water phase to what I was making) and it didn't work, the phases separated out and the lotion was very very thin. The suggested usage rate is 1-5%, but I'm thinking I will always need to use it at 5%.

Just wondering if you, or anyone else has used it and if so what your thoughts are on it.

I wanted to try another emulsifier other than the E Wax I have, because I'm beginning to think I don't like it as much anymore, and it seems to make my lotions SO thick. So I wanted to try something else out and see the difference. I think I'm liking it so far.

Brandi Yates said...

Im trying this with RenuAge from theherbarie.

Pier said...

I been through all products and study them for making eye cream. To finish I have 2 questions.
Can I replace behenyl alcohol with cetyl alcohol in the recipe or maybe IPM ?
Also can I used Cromoist to replace hydrolyzed silk protein ?
I finally found Ritamulse SCG in Voyageur and Revital-Eyes at formulatorsampleshop. Calendula extract only available at Personal Formulator which makes altogether 3 shipping costs. But I think this eye cream worth it. As soon as I receive your answer I might place the order and give you the result when I'll make it.
Thanks Susan for this nice eye cream recipe.

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

When I almost ran out of eyecream I had to make some myself ofcourse :-) So that is what I did. I used the recipe EYE CREAM WITH Polwax but addapted it and added some goodies. Result is a beautiful cream. It has a nice light-green colour because of the hempseedoil I used and a very mild scent because of 2 drops of benzoe eo.
The cream sinks in nicely and hydrates the skin aroud my eyes very well.

This is the addapted recipe:
25% water
11% chamomile tea
10% aloe vera
10% rose water
2.5% sodium lactate
2% sorbitol
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

4.5% e-wax N 200
3% Cetearyl alcohol
6% soy bean oil
5% hemp seed oil
5% calendula oil

5% Multifruit BSC
3% lipodermin (INCI:Aqua, Lecithin, Alcohol)
2% panthenol
2% green tea extract
1% vitamine E
1% preservative
A pinch of Hyaluronzuur (INCI:Hyaluronic Acid)