Thursday, November 15, 2012

Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 2

Sorry it's taken so long to get to part two of making an eye cream...see this post for more information on how busy I am these days! 

As usual, when making any product we should ask ourselves this question: What is my goal? So what is my goal with this eye cream? I want something that will moisturize my under eye area without feeling too greasy or heavy. I would like something that will reduce inflammation and reduce dark circles.

We put some great oil soluble ingredients into the heated oil phase of our product last week, which makes up 27% of the lotion, so we have 73% left for our heated water phase and cool down phase.

What kinds of water soluble ingredients could we use? Hydrosols and extracts are the first things that come to mind. Something like aloe vera could help soothe annoyed skin and witch hazel could offer a slightly cooling feeling while reducing inflammation. We can add film formers - like hydrolyzed proteins - and humectants - like glycerin, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, honeyquat, or honey - as well as cosmeceuticals! We have a ton of choices, so let's start narrowing them down.

I'm using Ritamulse SCG as my emulsifier, which means I can't use anything that has a cationic or positive charge. This means things like honeyquat or the cationic polymers aren't options.

Some people find honey and glycerin sticky, so those might not be the best choice for the delicate under eye area. Sodium lactate is a nice choice, as is sodium PCA, and consider using panthenol as it does a double duty offering some hygroscopic features as well as some wound healing features! Let's go with 2.5% sodium lactate (any more could make us sun sensitive) and 2% panthenol. Sodium lactate goes into the heated water phase, while the heat sensitive panthenol goes into the cool down phase.

Note...we don't make claims about our products, so please don't tell people who might buy this product from you that it can do this that or the other. I might use the properties the ingredients have when making decisions, but we must be so careful when stating what the product can do. We can't test that this eye cream will offer anything more than moisturizing and hydrating, so we can't say it can reduce inflammation or reduce dark circles! Here's a post on making claims about what we make!

What about hydrosols or water replacers? I'm going to include 10% aloe vera, 10% witch hazel, and 11% chamomile hydrosol. (The 11% is because my hand slipped and added 1% more. You can use 10%, if you wish.) like the anti-inflammatory features of each of those ingredients. I think just about any hydrosol would work nicely here, except perhaps peppermint. These are just my preferences and what I have in my workshop.

I could also include some powdered extracts in the cool down phase instead of the hydrosols - 0.5% chamomile extract, 0.5% green tea extract, 0.5% calendula extract, or 0.5% any other extract you like put into the cool down phase I'm going with the chamomile hydrosol for its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidizing features. (I'm also out of the powdered extract!) As the goal of this product is to reduce inflammation, I think I'll add 5% water soluble calendula extract into the heated water phase of my product to help with that aspect.

I tend to use hydrolyzed oat protein in my products, but I'm going with hydrolyzed silk protein this time because (a) I just bought it and (b) it can penetrate the skin for moisturizing purposes. I need all the moisturizing I can get for my delicate under eye area, so let's go with 2% in the heated water phase.

Finally, as I always like to have an approved barrier ingredient in my products, I can choose from dimethicone, cocoa butter, or allantoin. Cocoa butter would be too heavy here. Dimethicone might be a good choice as it is a great moisturizer, but it might be too heavy for my eyes. (Plus, I admit that I'm out of that, too! I really need to get to Voyageur this weekend!) Allantoin at 0.5% in the heated water phase seems like a great way to get that barrier ingredient into this product without making it too heavy.

Well, it looks like I have a water phase and a cool down phase ready to go!

10% aloe vera
10% witch hazel
11% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2.5% sodium lactate
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
41.5% water

2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or other preservative of choice)

Hold on a minute. Don't we have some very nice cosmeceuticals we could add to this product? Hmm, I do! Join me tomorrow (or Saturday) as we investigate a few cosmeceuticals we could include in this product! I really do think the list is endless, so I'm thinking about starting with one cosmeceutical and adding more as we get to know the skin feel and results of this eye cream!


LSG said...

Susan, I just wanted to say how much I enjoy your blog and how much the information has helped me.

Kathy said...

YAY - awesome eye cream. I played around with the oil phase last week and made up a water phase and it worked fairly well, but yours is better.

My wrinkles thank you.


Robert said...

Even if we can't say the cream can reduce inflammation or reduce dark circles are there any words/phrases we can use to imply the same thing and still be acceptable for a cosmetic?