RECIPE FOR OILY GEL WITH CERA BELLINA
10% cera bellina
44% soy bean oil
45% macadamia nut oil
1% fragrance or essential oil
Put all the ingredients, except the essential or fragrance oil, into a Pyrex jug and heat and hold in a double boiler until the ingredients are melted. Let sit - it's recommended to let it cool slowly - until the product reaches room temperature. Add your fragrance or essential oil when the product is below 45˚C.
macadamia nut oil because it would feel less greasy than an all soy bean oil product. I think I'd go with all dry feeling oils next time.) I could see this being used as a balm - something for sore muscles might be nice or a cuticle balm - but I really think it needs to be thicker. It's in a state that's between a liquid and a solid, and I'd like to see it thicker or thinner, but not in the state it's in now. (I think it would be good as a bath oil - it poured very well.)
If you like your products less greasy, I recommend using some IPM (up to 5%) or another ester (I think cetearyl ethylhexanoate would be really nice, or perhaps C12-15 alkyl benzoate), or less greasy feeling oils like hazelnut, macadamia nut, avocado, grapeseed, borage, or evening primrose oil. And if you want it to be more like a whipped butter consistency, I'd suggest using 15% cera bellina in the recipe. (I'll be posting more of my experiments in the next week or so!)
Click here for the emollients section of the blog to find other oils you might like to use!
I tried a bit of under my eyes and I quite liked the feeling, but I wanted to throw in a few fancy oils. I decided to mix 42 grams of the gel with 4 grams of green tea extract (oil based) and 4 grams of calendula oil (oil based). This was okay, but I think I'd like it thicker. My next experiment will be for an oil based eye gel with some neat oil soluble extracts. This would be nice for moisturizing, but I do like to have a few cosmeceuticals or extracts in things for my face.
Looking at this recipe, I realize that I have too much green tea extract in this experiment - I wanted about 5% and I ended up with 8! Which goes to show you that when you adapt things on the fly, you need to write things down and do the math! It does end up being 50 grams, which is an easy amount to work with if I wanted to turn this into a 100% recipe - 84% oily gel, 8% green tea extract, and 8% calendula oil.
Now that I've made an oily gel, I'm not really sure why I wanted to make one. I think the idea of using it as a scrub sounded nice, but I realize that I'm an emulsified scrub girl, so I'd need to include an emulsifier. Perhaps 5% Ritamulse SCG, Polawax, e-wax, BTMS-50, or BTMS-225 so it will rinse off clean? BTMS-50, BTMS-225, or BTMS-25 would be good options as they will make the product feel more powdery. Maybe I'll try it. (To be honest, I have a few scrubs I really love, so I'm not sure if I want to bother with another one!)
As a note, this is only my opinion about this one product I've made. I'd love to hear from you, my wonderful readers, about your experiences with cera bellina. And I'll be writing much more in the next week or so as I experiment further with it!
I recommend that you visit this page, which is a translation from Aroma Zone in France, for more ideas. I will be trying a few of them in the near future, and I'll let you know what I think!