Monday, August 20, 2012

Experiments with Rita BTMS-225: My normal rinse off conditioner

I've been playing with Rita BTMS-225, a new conditioning emulsifier carried by Voyageur Soap & Candle. What do I think of it?

In this post, Mychelle shared her experiences with Rita 225...I've been using the Rita BTMS 225 for a couple of months now and I really like it. As I predominantly used BTMS-25 from Lotioncrafter before, that's what I'm comparing it too. The Rita 225 does make much thicker emulsions IME. I was using 7% BTMS-25 before and had to take it down to 3% with the 225 so I wouldn't end up with paste. I'm also finding it a little more emollient than the product I was using. At first I thought it might be my imagination, but I believe it to be a touch heavier on my hair. All that said, I am loving this product and hope to keep using it. I like that I get the same results with less (though I don't know why), that it conditions very well, and it's been very easy to work with. I can't wait to hear more about your experiments with it Susan!

I'm having the same experiences as Mychelle. I have found that my products are much thicker with Rita BTMS-225 than Incroquat BTMS-50, and I think the reason why is the difference in the fatty alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol tends to make products feel thicker and waxier.

Incroquat BTMS-50 INCI Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol.
Rita BTMS-225 INCI Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol

What do I think about it as a conditioner? I made up a batch of my normal conditioner and made one change - the Rita BTMS-225 for BTMS-50. Even with the cetrimonium chloride - which tends to thin out an emulsified product - it was very very thick!

7% Rita BTMS-225
2% cetrimonium chloride

81.5% water
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil (oatmeal, milk & honey)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Weigh the oil phase in a heat proof container - like a Pyrex jug - and place into the double boiler. Heat to 70C and hold for 20 minutes. Do the same for the water phase. (Before putting in the double boiler, measure your entire water phase including the container so you can replace the water that evaporates during the heat and hold!)

Remove the water phase from the double boiler and weigh it after the heat and hold. Add enough water to get to the weight before heating. (I boil some water at the start of the heat and hold in a kettle and add that to the water phase. It shouldn't be boiling!) Add the oil phase to the water phase and mix well. When the combined phases reach 40˚C add the cool down phase and mix well. Let cool, then bottle.

I found the Rita BTMS-225 takes a long time to melt - perhaps because the cetearyl alcohol can have a higher melting point than cetyl alcohol - but it blended very nicely and it emulsified really well. The final product is really thick. It's on par with my intense conditioner with coconut oil for thickness.

On my hair, it felt a bit waxy, but the end result was pretty darn good considering that it was very humid the other day and was humid this morning and I didn't have a ton of frizzies. My hair seemed easier to brush, as well. It wasn't as slippery in the tub as my normal conditioner is, which is a bonus when you're a clumsy person like me!

Final decision? I really like it! What will I do differently? I'm going to try this with cetrimonium bromide next, and maybe a titch of behenyl alcohol to make it more powdery!

Oh, and it worked really well as a shaving product - more about that tomorrow.

I gave a bottle of it to my best friend and I'm waiting to hear what she thinks!


Sciarretta Farms said...

Dear Susan,

I saw this comic and thought of you. :)

Julie said...

Can you use regular e wax in a conditioner? I'd love to try one just to try it, but I don't want to have to buy a different emulsifier I probably wouldn't use much.

Julie said...

oops, you probable already have that covered on the blog somewhere. I forgot to check :(